Northern Norway’s Arctic Wilderness: Chasing the Aurora Borealis Across Frozen Fjords

There's something magical about chasing the Northern Lights across the Arctic—where charming rorbuer (those iconic red fishermen's cabins) dot frozen shorelines, where the warm glow of hygge (the Scandinavian art of cosy contentment) chases away the polar night, and where the aurora dances above different landscapes in each northern destination. Two winters ago in Lapland, under those swirling green lights, my then-boyfriend surprised me with a ring and a question that changed our lives forever. This year, we're continuing our love story under Norway's spectacular skies.

A place where the Arctic wilderness puts on a completely different show—where dramatic fjords replace Lapland's frozen forests, where coastal islands like Sommarøy offer new perspectives, and where the Northern Lights paint the sky in their unique Norwegian palette. That magical moment when he proposed under Lapland's auroras will forever be our first chapter, but Tromsø and its surroundings are writing our next adventure. 

Now, we're returning to the Arctic—as husband and wife—to discover how Norway's winter wonderland compares to our beloved Lapland. From Tromsø's vibrant streets to Kvaløya's rugged beauty and those picture-perfect islands like Sommarøy, we're trading frozen woodlands for fjords while keeping our eyes on the prize: those mesmerising Northern Lights. With new direct flights from Geneva to Tromsø, the decision was easy—especially during this remarkable solar peak season. 

Why Norway now? Because while Lapland gave us the engagement of our dreams, we're chasing new memories during the peak of Solar Maximum 2024-2025. The same solar activity that made our Lapland proposal so spectacular is now creating unbelievable displays over Norway's dramatic landscapes—a phenomenon we won't witness at this intensity again until 2035. 

We've packed our warmest layers and our sense of adventure for days filled with frozen fjord explorations, cosy hygge moments in traditional rorbuer, and of course, those breathtaking nights when the Norwegian sky puts on its own version of the light show we fell in love with in Lapland. 

Join me as I compare Arctic wonders—from the snowy forests where we got engaged to Norway's coastal magic—proving that while every Northern Lights display is unique, the wonder they inspire remains equally powerful. The adventure continues—under new northern skies.

---

GENERAL INFORMATION

Norway is steeped in history that dates back to the Viking Age (circa 793-1066 AD). The Vikings, skilled seafarers and explorers, set out from Norway to trade, raid, and settle across Europe, leaving a profound impact on the continent. Their longships enabled them to navigate both open seas and shallow rivers, reaching as far as North America and the Caspian Sea.

In addition to the Viking Age, Norway's history is marked by the establishment of the Kalmar Union in 1397, uniting Denmark, Norway, and Sweden under a single monarch. This union lasted until the early 16th century and played a significant role in shaping the political landscape of Scandinavia.

The 19th century saw Norway gain independence from Denmark in 1814, following the Napoleonic Wars, and it later entered into a union with Sweden, which lasted until 1905 when Norway finally achieved full independence.

Tromsø, often referred to as the "Gateway to the Arctic," played a pivotal role in Norway's maritime history. Founded in the early 1800s, it became a hub for Arctic hunting and exploration. Its location above the Arctic Circle made it a base for many polar expeditions, including those led by renowned explorers like Fridtjof Nansen. Today, Tromsø continues to be an important cultural and administrative centre, with a rich heritage that reflects Norway's adventurous spirit and deep connection to the sea.

Location: Norway is located in Northern Europe, occupying the western part of the Scandinavian Peninsula. It is bordered by Sweden to the east, Finland to the northeast, and Russia to the far northeast. The country boasts an extensive coastline along the North Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea, characterised by stunning fjords and islands.

Tromsø is situated in the northern part of Norway, specifically above the Arctic Circle in Troms og Finnmark county. It lies approximately 350 kilometres (about 217 miles) north of the Arctic Circle and is surrounded by the Lyngen Alps and the Barents Sea. Tromsø is accessible by road, air, and sea, making it a key gateway for Arctic exploration and tourism. It serves as a vital cultural and administrative centre for the region, with a rich history tied to Norway's maritime heritage.

Etymology: "Norway" comes from the Old Norse Norðrvegr, meaning "Northern Way"—a nod to its Viking-era coastal routes.

"Tromsø": Historians debate between Straumsøy (currents) or the Sámi word Romsa, possibly meaning "steep island." 

Symbol: The national symbol of Norway is the lion (from 13th-century King Sverre), representing strength and courage, often featured on the royal coat of arms.

Size: Norway covers an area of approximately 323,802 km2), making it the 61st largest country in the world.

Capital: Oslo is the capital of Norway, serving as the political, economic, and cultural centre of the country.

Population: As of 2023, Norway has a population of around 5.4 million people, with Tromsø housing approximately 76,000 residents.

Languages: The official language is Norwegian, which has two written forms: Bokmål and Nynorsk. English is widely spoken, especially in urban areas.

DICTIONARY

• Hallo - Hello

• Takk - Thank you

• Vær så snill - Please

• Unnskyld - Excuse me / Sorry

• Hvor er...? - Where is...?

• Ja / Nei - Yes / No

• Kan jeg få regningen, vær så snill? - Can I have the bill, please?

• Snakker du engelsk? - Do you speak English?

  
  

More unique Norwegian words for your dictionary:

• Rorbu: A rorbu (plural: rorbuer) is a traditional Norwegian fisherman’s cabin, originally built on stilts near fjords. Historically, these were simple structures for resting between fishing trips, but today many are modernized as cosy vacation rentals. The word combines ror (to row) and bu (small house).

• Hygge: Though Danish in origin, hygge (pronounced "hoo-gah") is deeply embraced in Norway. It embodies cosiness, contentment, and savouring simple pleasures—think candlelit evenings, warm blankets, and quality time with loved ones.

• Koselig: Norwegian cousin of hygge—warmth from cosy settings or loved ones.  

• Friluftsliv: The love of outdoor life, central to Norwegian culture (hiking, skiing, or just being in nature).

• Døgnvill: Disorientation from sleep deprivation or midnight sun confusion.  

• Holke: Thick, compacted ice that’s stubborn to melt—common in winter.  

• Forelsket: The euphoric feeling of falling in love.

• Gruglede: Anticipation mixed with anxiety (e.g., starting a new job).  

• Agurknytt: "Cucumber news"—trivial or irrelevant gossip.  

• Helt Texas: Something wildly chaotic (literally "totally Texas").  

• Tøffelhelt: A "slipper hero"—someone overly cautious or unadventurous.  

• Dugnad: Community volunteer work (e.g., cleaning parks).  

• Fellesferie: The collective summer holiday in July when many businesses close.  

  
  

Currency: Norwegian Krone (NOK). For reference: 1 NOK = 0.088 EUR; 1 NOK = 0.095 USD.

Local Time:  Norway operates on Central European Time (CET), which is UTC +1, and Central European Summer Time (CEST), UTC +2 during daylight saving time.

Economy: Norway has a mixed economy, heavily reliant on natural resources such as oil and gas, which contribute significantly to its GDP. The country is also known for its strong welfare system and high standard of living, supported by a robust fishery sector and a growing emphasis on renewable energy. The country is pivoting to renewables, with 98% hydropower and massive investments in wind energy. Tromsø thrives on Arctic research, tourism, and education—home to the world’s northernmost university. 

Best time to visit:

• Polar Nights (November to January): Experience complete darkness, ideal for witnessing the northern lights and enjoying a unique winter atmosphere.

• Midnight Sun (May to July): During these months, the sun doesn’t set, providing continuous daylight perfect for hiking and outdoor activities.

• Aurora Borealis (September to March): Autumn and winter are the best seasons for Aurora Borealis sightings due to clearer skies and longer nights.

• Whale Watching (November to January): Tromsø is a prime location for observing orcas and humpback whales during their migration.

• Summer Activities: The months of June to August offer mild weather, perfect for hiking, cycling, and exploring the stunning fjords.

  
  

What to pack / winter edition:

• Spikes for ice traction

• Headlamp or torch for dark evenings

• Winter boots with good insulation

• Warm hats and gloves

• Thermal suits for layering

• Waterproof outer layers to combat snow and rain

• Ski goggles for visibility in snowy conditions

• Base layers for added warmth

  
  

Electricity plug: Norway uses the Type C and Type F plugs, with a standard voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.

Food culture: Norwegian food culture is deeply anchored in its geography and climate, focusing on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, particularly seafood and game.

Staple Ingredients: Fish (especially salmon and cod); potatoes; root vegetables; game meats (like reindeer and elk) ; berries (like cloudberries and blueberries); dairy products.

Some typical foods:

• Lapskaus: A hearty meat stew made with root vegetables, traditionally served on cold days.

• Raspeballer: Potato dumplings often served with meat or gravy, a comforting dish in Norwegian cuisine.

• Gravlaks: Cured salmon seasoned with sugar, salt, and dill, commonly served with mustard sauce and bread.

• Kjøttkaker: Traditional Norwegian meatballs made from minced meat and served with potatoes and brown sauce.

• Koldtbord: A cold buffet featuring a variety of dishes, including cured meats, cheeses, and seafood, perfect for sharing.

  
  

Drones: Norway's stunning landscapes make it a popular destination for drone enthusiasts. However, it is important to adhere to local regulations regarding drone usage, particularly around national parks and populated areas.

Stay connected: Mobile coverage is generally good in urban areas, but may be limited in remote regions. Wi-Fi is widely available in hotels, cafés, and public spaces.

Travel requirements: Visitors to Norway may need a valid passport and, depending on their nationality, a visa. It is advisable to check the latest entry requirements before travelling.

---

HOW TO GET AROUND

We chose to rent a car from Hertz for our travels around Norway. The country is increasingly focused on electric vehicles, and rental companies offer a range of electric options.

Norway leads the world in EV adoption, with generous incentives making them the smart choice for travellers. EVs get free passage on toll roads and ferries, plus access to over 10,000 charging stations nationwide. If you opt for a petrol car instead (which we did), be prepared for higher rental car price. 

Other ways to get around include organised tours, which often provide guided experiences, and van life for those seeking a more adventurous and flexible travel style. If you’re considering van life, remember Allemannsretten (the Right to Roam) lets you camp freely—but with rules: no open fires in summer (mid-April –mid-September); stay within 150m of houses/cabins, and always respect private land; max 2 nights per spot.

Norway’s public transport is excellent—Tromsø has electric buses and ferries to nearby islands.

Important things to note before travelling to Norway:

• Cost of living: Norway is known for its high cost of living, so budgeting adequately is essential.

• Weather variability: Be prepared for sudden weather changes, particularly in the mountains and during winter months.

• Outdoor safety: Always inform someone of your plans if venturing into the wilderness, and be aware of local wildlife.

• Respect nature: Norwegians take sustainability seriously which is a big plus point for me (recycle everything!).

• Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory, but rounding up the bill or leaving small change is appreciated in restaurants and cafés.

Wildlife in the Tromsø, Kvaløya & Sommarøy Region

The Arctic landscapes around Tromsø, Kvaløya, and Sommarøy are teeming with wildlife—both on land and in the sea. However, one of the most iconic Arctic animals, the reindeer, has a unique cultural and legal status in Norway. Here’s a breakdown of the wildlife you might encounter in this region and why reindeer are different here than in other Arctic countries. 

Land mammals

• Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus)

  - Only Semi-domesticated in Norway

  – Unlike in Canada, Alaska, or Siberia, there are no wild reindeer in mainland Norway. All reindeer are owned by the Sámi people, the Indigenous inhabitants of northern Scandinavia, who have herded them for centuries. This makes seeing reindeer in Norway a special cultural experience—you’re not just seeing wildlife, you’re witnessing a living Indigenous tradition.

  - Protected cultural right – Reindeer herding is legally reserved for the Sámi as part of Norway’s efforts to protect their traditional livelihood. This means only Sámi families can own and herd reindeer, ensuring their culture survives. 

  - Where to see them – They roam freely in winter, often near roadsides on Kvaløya or near Malangen. In summer, they migrate to higher pastures. 

• Arctic Hare (Lepus arcticus)

  - Pure white in winter, brown in summer.

  - Often spotted in open tundra areas, especially around Sommarøy and Kvaløya’s rocky coasts. 

• Moose (Alces alces )

  - Norway’s largest land animal.

  - Mostly found in forested areas, but occasionally wander near roads in search of food. 

• Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)

  - Adaptable and common, often seen at dusk. 

  - Their tracks are smaller and more delicate than Arctic fox prints. 

• Wolverine (Gulo gulo)

- Extremely rare and elusive. 

- Called "fjellfross" (mountain cat) in Norwegian. 

- If you see large, wide paw prints in the snow, it might be a wolverine! 

Marine mammals

• Orca (Killer Whale) (Orcinus orca)

  - Best Season: November–January (herring feeding season). 

  - Often seen near Kvaløya (Whale Island) in large pods. 7. Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)

  - Acrobatic breachers, often spotted alongside orcas. 

  - Migrate through the fjords in winter. 

• Harbour Seal (Phoca vitulina)

  - Frequently seen lounging on rocks near Sommarøy. 

• Porpoise (Phocoena phocoena)

  - Small, fast-moving dolphins.

  - Often spotted from ferries or coastal viewpoints. 

  
  

Birds of the Arctic

• White-Tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)

  - Europe’s largest eagle (wingspan up to 2.5m!).

  - Often seen near fishing villages, scavenging for leftovers. 

• Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)

  - Hunts reindeer calves and Arctic hares. 

  - Nests on high cliffs in the region. 

• Ptarmigan (Lagopus muta) 

  - Changes color from brown (summer) to pure white (winter). 

  - Often seen scurrying across snowy roads. 

• Puffin (Fratercula arctica) 

  - Summer visitors (April–August). 

  - Nest on coastal cliffs, though more common further north. 

  
  

Best wildlife spotting tips:

• Winter (Nov–Mar): Orcas, humpbacks, reindeer, Arctic hares. 

• Summer (Jun–Aug): Puffins, seals, eagles, occasional moose. 

• Dawn/Dusk: Best time for foxes, hares, and eagles. 

• Whale Watching: Book a tour from Tromsø or Kvaløya in winter. 

---

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY

From road-tripping through Arctic landscapes and dipping in icy fjords to chasing the elusive Northern Lights and embracing traditional rorbu life, our Norwegian adventure was a whirlwind of breathtaking scenery, unpredictable weather, and unforgettable experiences. Tromsø’s vibrant charm, dogsledding thrills, and even the shock of Norway’s infamous prices made this trip one for the books. Day by day, here’s how our Arctic journey unfolded in that short-lived moment when deep snow still blanketed the cusp of spring.

---

DAY 1.

We picked up our rental car at Tromsø Airport and drove straight into exploration, greeted by wild weather—blinding snow, fierce winds, and fleeting sunshine—all on the spring equinox (March 20), the coldest and most chaotic day of our trip. 

TROMSØ - KVALØYA – approx. 22 km

KVALØYA (WHALE ISLAND)

Our first stop was Kvaløya ("Whale Island"). This rugged island, connected to Tromsø by a bridge, lives up to its name—orcas and humpback whales frequent its fjords from November to January, drawn by herring migrations. Though we missed the whales, the island’s dramatic fjords and snow-draped peaks set the tone for our Arctic adventure.  Beyond whale-watching, Kvaløya is a microcosm of Arctic landscapes: snow-capped peaks, frozen lakes, and coastal hamlets like Tromvik, where red-and-yellow rorbuer cling to the shoreline. The island’s western edge faces the open ocean, making it a hotspot for dramatic weather shifts—one moment you’re squinting in sunlight, the next you’re in a whiteout blizzard.

Grøtfjord: A serene stop on Kvaløya’s northern coast, where the wind howled and the waves crashed against the icy shore—pure Nordic drama. Grøtfjord is framed by sheer cliffs and glassy waters that reflect the surrounding mountains. Its name translates to "Porridge Fjord," possibly referencing its calm, thick-ice winters. Locals joke that the fjord’s mood changes faster than the weather—one minute it’s a mirror, the next it’s churning with wind-whipped waves. In spring, it’s a quiet place to spot Arctic hares darting across the snow . 

Tromvik: Next, we drove to Tromvik, a remote fishing village at the island’s western edge, where colourful boathouses stood defiant against the elements. The road there was an adventure itself, winding through valleys where sudden snow squalls reduced visibility to near zero. 

Tromvik is a launch point for winter sea eagle safaris—white-tailed eagles, with wingspans over 2 meters, often swoop near boats hoping for fish scraps. The village’s isolation means you might share the road with more snowplows than cars. 

KVALØYA – SOMMARØY – approx. 30 km

SOMMARØY

Then came Sommarøy ("Summer Island"), a tiny paradise connected to Kvaløya by a striking one-lane bridge with a traffic light—because, in Norway, even bridges follow Arctic efficiency rules. The bridge’s design is classic Norwegian pragmatism: built to withstand storms that regularly top 100 km/h.  

This tiny island is famous for its powder-white beaches and turquoise waters—though in March, it’s more like a snow globe.

A quick stop at the local shop was a reality check—Norway’s prices shocked even us Swiss!  (think 60 EUR for few basic things) 

WHERE TO STAY

SOMMARØY ARCTIC HOTEL

We stayed at Sommarøy Arctic Hotel, a cosy waterfront retreat where every window framed postcard-worthy views. The hotel leans into the maritime vibe, with driftwood decor and saunas overlooking the fjord. Dinner was lovely and breakfast buffet was good.

Instagram: @sommaroyarctic

Book here: Sommarøy Arctic Hotel

Evening: Despite the 0% aurora forecast, we took our car, braved the cold—and caught a 5-minute, faint glow. A humble but magical welcome to spring in the Arctic! 

P.S. We visited during the equinox.

---

DAY 2. 

After breakfast, we snapped photos by Sommarøy’s three iconic colourful rorbuer before hitting the road toward Mestervik.

SOMMARØY – MESTERVIK – approx. 84 km

Our navigation showed a bridge—but where was it? The GPS wasn’t wrong—Norway’s Målselvtunnelen  is a submerged tube that dips below a fjord. Built to bypass avalanche-prone mountains, it’s one of the country’s many engineering feats (like the Atlantic Ocean Road). The sudden transition from snowy peaks to an underwater tunnel feels surreal, akin to driving into a Bond villain’s lair. 

Just 20 minutes past the tunnel, the road was closed (classic Arctic travel!), forcing a detour around the island to reach our accommodation.

WHERE TO STAY

MALANGEN BRYGGER RESORT

Nestled on a secluded fjord, Malangen Resort blends luxury with tradition. It was pure Nordic bliss—hygge. Their rorbuer are modern takes on fishermen’s cabins: think floor-to-ceiling fjord views. All rorbuer are charming and have slightly different interiors, but we were lucky enough to have a whirlpool with a fjord view. 

We also indulged in two-hour fjordside private outdoor jacuzzi dips, sauna sessions, and even a heart-stopping plunge into the Arctic fjord—imagine that gasping, alive moment when toes hit freezing water and every cell wakes up. Dinner was delicious, followed by a Northern Lights activity at their wilderness camp with a cracking fire near the frozen Nikkavannet Lake. Though clouds obscured the aurora, we spotted Arctic hare tracks, heard stories of golden eagles, and imagined wolverines lurking in the shadows. Not every night delivers the Northern Lights—but in Norway, the adventure never stops. 

The next morning came the magic of dogsledding with Alaskan huskies—their boundless energy exploding into action as they raced us through frozen forests and lakes. These athletes live to run (we wouldn't have done it otherwise!), their wagging tails and happy panting proof of pure joy. We finished by burying our faces in impossibly soft husky puppies, soaking up their warmth and playfulness after our Arctic adventure. 

While I've always been cautious about using animals for entertainment, my perspective shifted when it came to Alaskan huskies. These dogs are born to run—their high energy levels and natural instincts drive them to crave movement and purpose. They often need to run 16–32 kilometres (10–20 miles) a day to stay physically and mentally healthy, and without that outlet, they can become restless or even develop behavioural issues. When we went mushing, it was clear how much they loved it—they were overjoyed to see us, wagging their tails and barking excitedly, eager to hit the trail. 

Instagram: @malangenresort

Book here: Malangen Resort

MESTERVIK – TROMSØ – approx. 68 km

TROMSØ

Norway’s history is etched in fjords and frost, a tale of resilient explorers, Arctic trade, and celestial wonders. At its heart lies Tromsø, the "Gateway to the Arctic," where history and nature collide under the shimmering auroras. 

Long before Tromsø became a city, Norse chieftains like Ohthere roamed these northern lands in the 9th century, declaring himself the "furthest north of all Norwegians" while trading with the indigenous Sámi people . The Sámi, with their rich shamanic traditions and reindeer herding, had inhabited the region for millennia, leaving behind rock carvings near Tromsø dating back to 7,000 B.C.

In 1794, Tromsø was granted city status by King Christian VII, though it was little more than a fishing outpost with 80 souls. By the 19th century, it exploded into a hub for Arctic hunting and trade, supplying whalers and explorers like Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen before their polar expeditions . Its bustling docks earned it the nickname "Paris of the North" — not for grandeur, but for its cosmopolitan flair, where Russian fur traders, German brewers, and Sámi artisans mingled. 

Tromsø’s magic lies in its extremes. From November to January, the sun never rises, casting the city in an ethereal "blue hour" twilight . Yet this darkness birthed its fame: the Northern Lights. Situated under the Auroral Oval, Tromsø becomes a stage for the aurora’s green swirls, drawing dreamers and scientists alike . The Arctic University, founded here in 1972, even studies these celestial dances. 

Today, Tromsø balances its past and future. Wooden 18th-century houses line its streets, while the iconic Arctic Cathedral (a parish church, despite its name) pierces the sky with its modernist spire. It’s a city where husky sleds race past research labs, and where the world’s northernmost botanical garden defies the cold with alpine blooms. 

WHERE TO STAY

CLARION  HOTEL THE EDGE

Perched on Tromsø's harbour, this design-forward hotel blends modern Nordic style with prime Northern Lights potential even though the best Aurora displays are away from any light pollution – out of the city. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame stunning fjord views, while the rooftop Sky Bar offers cocktails with panoramic Arctic vistas. After nights spent chasing auroras, wake up to one of Norway's best breakfast spreads - think smoked salmon, fresh waffles, and strong Arctic coffee. The sleek rooms feature blackout curtains and minimalist Scandinavian comfort. 

Instagram: @clariontheedge

Book here: Clarion Hotel The Edge

AURORA HUNTING

We arrived in Tromsø in the late afternoon, checked into our hotel, and hurried to prepare for our Northern Lights expedition. The adventure began at 6 pm, with a 5:50 pm meeting point in front of the Scandic Ishavshotel – one of Wandering Owl’s selected pickup spots.  

WHY WE CHOSE WANDERING OWL

From the moment we booked, we were impressed by their responsible travel ethos and eco-conscious approach. This isn’t just another tour company – they prioritise small groups (max 16 people), sustainability, and minimising environmental impact while maximising the chances of seeing the auroras. Their long-standing reputation (they’ve been guiding since 2013) and professionalism sealed the deal.  

Our guide, Tomas, and driver, Łukasz, were waiting for us right on time. They don’t just stick to Norway. If Tromsø’s skies are cloudy (a common Arctic challenge), they’re prepared to drive to Finland or Sweden in search of clear views. 

Pro tip: Always bring your passport!

Luck was on our side – we didn’t need to cross borders. Just 50-60 minutes from Tromsø, at Laksvatn under a sky already flickering with green, we found our spot . Wandering Owl ensures everyone stays warm with thermal suits and boots (a lifesaver in minus temperatures but Nico and I didn’t need them), and soon, a crackling bonfire lit up our little Arctic camp.  

During the light show we had steaming hot chocolate with biscuits and a delicious traditional vegan soup. 

The lights appeared even before full darkness – a rare treat. Swirling greens intensified into vibrant purples and pinks, pulsing across the horizon. Tomas called it "poetry in the sky," and for hours, the sky would not stop writing its poetry.

Normally, auroras are best seen far from light pollution, but this night was so active that even Tromsø’s city glow couldn’t dim them.  

THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE MAGIC

Auroras occur when solar particles collide with Earth’s atmosphere, creating those mesmerising colours:  

• Green (most common) – oxygen at lower altitudes  

• Purple/Red – nitrogen or high-altitude oxygen  

• Pink – strong solar activity  

They’re most frequent near the polar regions (like Tromsø!) during solar maximum cycles, but geomagnetic conditions (KP index, Bz values) dictate visibility. I track these using several essential apps for any aurora chaser such as:

• Hello Aurora

• My Aurora Forecast & Alerts

• Northern Lights Aurora Forecast

• Norway Lights (for Norwegian regions only)

For a deep dive into the science, I am currently creating a detailed Aurora guide which you will be able to find here ready before next winter season.

Wandering Owl delivered more than just a tour – it was an Arctic experience. From their eco-friendly ethos to their determination to find clear skies, they made sure we witnessed one of nature’s greatest spectacles at its most vibrant.  

Instagram: @wanderingowl

Book here: Wandering Owl

Use my code IZABEL15 for 15% off (valid for the whole next season 2025/2026)

---

DAY 4.

TROMSØ

Fjellheisen Cable Car

We had high hopes for riding the famous Fjellheisen Cable Car during our Tromsø visit, but Arctic weather had other plans. Strong winds forced its closure for most of the day, and though it reopened in late afternoon, we had to miss it - our second Northern Lights hunting adventure was calling!  

For those luckier with weather, here's what makes this attraction so special:  

The cable car whisks you from Tromsdalen up to Storsteinen mountain ledge (421m) in just 4-5 minutes, with departures every 30 minutes. Each spacious gondola fits 28 passengers comfortably, and if one fills up, they'll promptly add another.  

At the top, you'll find:  

• 360-degree panoramic views of Tromsø, its fjords, and surrounding islands  

• Fjellstua Café for warm drinks and Norwegian waffles with a view  

• Hiking trails to Tromsdalstinden peak (1,238m) for more adventurous visitors  

  
  

Good to know:

Wind advisory: Frequently closes during strong winds (like during our visit!)  

Accessibility: Wheelchair-friendly with ramps at both stations

Ticket price: 545 NOK (adult round-trip)  

While we missed this iconic experience, it gives us the perfect excuse to return to Tromsø. Next time, we'll plan more possibilities for our cable car ride to avoid potential winds!  

P.S. Even if the cable car journey is closed, you can still walk to the top if you have a bit more time.

Arctic Cathedral

We visited the striking Arctic Cathedral (Ishavskatedralen), Tromsø's most recognizable landmark. Despite its grand name, it's actually a parish church with a breathtaking design: 

• Architecture: Its iconic triangular shape represents Arctic icebergs 

• Interior: The church's most remarkable feature is its stunning east-facing glass window - a magnificent mosaic of coloured panes that creates a dazzling light effect inside when the sun hits it.

• History: Completed in 1965, its modern design was controversial at first but is now beloved 

  
  

Entrance fee: 80 NOK

The Instagrammable Blue Arch view

For the perfect Instagram shot, we found the blue concrete arch on the mainland side of Tromsø Bridge (not near the cathedral). There was quite a queue of tourists waiting to frame the Arctic Cathedral through it! 

More Tromsø highlights:

• Troll Museum: A whimsical dive into Norwegian folklore with interactive exhibits

• UiT - The Arctic University of Norway: The world's northernmost university

• Tromsø Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden: Showcasing plants from polar regions worldwide

• Polar Museum: Whaling history and Arctic explorer tales. 

• Mack Brewery: If you are a beer fan, visit the world’s northernmost brewery (try the Isbjørn beer). 

• Storgata Street: Cosy cafés and Sami-designed souvenirs. 

Early Dinner at Casa Inferno

We had a very early dinner due to our Northern Lights activity at 6 pm. We tried the wood-fired pizzas at Casa Inferno, a popular Italian restaurant. It was nice but the food was quite salty.

The booking hack: While online reservations show fully booked, calling directly can often secure a table! Many Tromsø restaurants hold back tables for phone reservations—always try!

The day showed Tromsø's perfect mix of culture, nature and good food - all under the watchful eye of those stunning Arctic skies, now it’s time to hit the road and dive into the night full of magic.

AURORA HUNTING | WANDERING OWL VOL. 2

Our second night of aurora chasing began just like the first - same pickup point, same time, but with a thrilling new adventure ahead. This time, our guides Lucas and Illiyan from Wandering Owl took us to Sørfjorden, where the real Arctic escapades began.

To reach the fjord, we faced our first challenge: navigating the icy slope down to the shore. While most of the group sensibly followed our guide's lead, carving a safe path through the snow, I - armed with my trusty head torch and ice spikes - took the riskier route across the frozen surface. Thankfully, the ice held firm, and I made it down without a dunk in the freezing water! The final stretch to the beach was more of a sheer slide than a path, and some of us couldn't resist - we plonked down and slid gleefully to the bottom, laughing like kids.  

As we waited for the magnetic fields to align and the auroras to ignite, Lucas and Illiyan set up camp with a crackling bonfire and cosy seating (hauled down on a sledge; in the van there were spare thermal suits and boots - though none of us needed them this time). The night was unusually mild at +2°C (36°F), a far cry from Lapland's -35°C (-31°F), which we'd braved before. Global warming worries aside, the warmth was a welcome change.  

And then - the sky exploded. Swirls of emerald danced above us, their reflections shimmering in the fjord's glassy waters. This was Norway's magic at its finest: Auroras mirrored in Arctic fjords, a spectacle that felt even more dramatic than our Lapland sightings. (Though don't get me wrong - we adored Lapland's snowy wilderness too!)  

We barely blinked, not wanting to miss a second. The lights pulsed relentlessly, growing fiercer by the hour. By the time we dragged ourselves away, sleepless but euphoric, we knew this night would stay with us forever.  

---

 DAY 5.

FINES & FAREWELLS  

Our final morning in Tromsø began smoothly - breakfast, check-out, and then... a 990 NOK parking fine slapped on our rental car. Here's what happened: we had parked the car there overnight (Sunday) when parking was free, paid for Monday morning parking online, but still got fined. Apparently there was some exception for that exact spot we missed. Lesson learned: Always double-check the signs thoroughly!  

With a mix of amusement and resignation (hey, it's all part of the adventure), we returned our car at the airport and bid farewell to Northern Norway - for now.  

GOODBYE, ARCTIC MAGIC

From the wild beauty of Kvaløya's rugged shores to the candy-coloured rorbuer of Sommarøy, from heart-racing dogsledding under the winter sun to those soul-stirring Aurora displays over frozen fjords - Northern Norway has carved itself into our memories.  

We'll never forget those electrifying moments plunging into the icy fjord waters, the shock of cold stealing our breath only to leave us buzzing with life, more awake than we'd ever felt. The Arctic dip that made our skin tingle and hearts race - proof we were truly alive in this magnificent landscape.  

We'll miss the cosy crackle of fires in Malangen's wilderness camp, the thrill of chasing the Northern Lights, and Tromsø's vibrant charm, where Arctic cathedrals and Italian pizzas coexist effortlessly.  

This is a land where nature writes the rules - where winds cancel cable cars, where parking fines appear unexpectedly, and where every icy path leads to something unforgettable.  

Until next time, Norway. Takk for alt.