Who hasn’t heard of Italy?! One of the most beautiful European countries, the ‘’fashion boot’’ stepping on the Mediterranean, the home of pizza and pasta, the place where you can cross seas of endless vineyards, olive and lemon trees… Passionate, colorful, perfect in its imperfection – this is Bella Italia, a country with powerful history, incredible artists and breathtaking sceneries.
Sometimes just a short walk roaming the Italian alleys and piazzas will teleport you to the past of the Roman Empire, the architecture will give you a taste of the Renaissance or will throw you into the romantic fairytale of Italy. Be prepared to cross some dirty streets in Naples, but never forget to do it in style because Italy is all about fashion and heritage. This is the country where you will meet the most stylish elderly people – more food, but for the eye. In a cute car, Vespa, bike or scooter – this doesn’t matter when you ride it in style.
In this blog post, I will try to be as brief as possible and come straight to the point. I won’t speak too much about history but will give you some interesting facts and tips, and tell you what is to be seen, done and experienced.
VENETO – TREVISO AND VENICE
TREVISO
Only half an hour train journey from Venice, Treviso deserves a place on your visit list. The historic part of the city similar to Venice brings a charming atmosphere with the canals passing through its alleys and buildings rising straight from the water. They might not be as spectacular as the Venetian canals, but they surely give a unique romantic vibe to the town.
Treviso is surrounded by 15th-century, about 5km long city walls cooked with bricks that served as defense in the past. They run along the entire perimeter of the town and have three entry points. The three gates are San Tommaso Gate to the north, Porta Santi Quaranta in the west and Altinia Gate to the south.
Treviso is where the prosecco originates and you should not forget to do a trip to the Prosecco hills and do some wine tasting. If you have the time don’t skip taking the iconic Prosecco road!
Points of interest: Piazza dei Signori (Palazzo dei Trecento, Palazzo del Podesta with the Torre del Comune); Cathedral and Museo Diocesano; Luigi Bailo Civic Museum; Santa Caterina Museum; San Nicolo (Gothic church); Villa Emo; Pescheria (Fish Market); San Francesco (Church with mix of Romanesque and Gothic features)
I’ve been to Treviso already, but the main reason to come back this time was an invitation to an Italian wedding. The wedding took place not too far from town – in Castello San Salvatore. This castle is snuggled in the Prosecco hills, located in the heart of Veneto between Venice and the Dolomites. Previously being a fortress, a palace and a salon for artists and literary figures, nowadays this extraordinary castle is mainly used as a venue for memorable events.
VENICE
For me, Venice is by far the most romantic city in the world. This place has no off-season and despite the crowds that you will most probably witness, it’s impossible not to find it adorable and one of the most spectacular and unique places on our planet. This is the reason why I came back here for the third time and each time I visit, it gives me a different experience that I will forever keep in my heart.
How to get there: By plane from Marco Polo Airport - Venice or Treviso Airport. From Marco Polo Airport to Venice City you can opt for a bus or water taxi. Coming by car is not the best option as you will have to leave your car in parking out of the town.
Venice is also easily reachable by train – it’s half an hour journey from Treviso.
When to visit + events consideration: Probably the best time to visit Venice is in September – October, but Venice is an all-year-round destination. However, keep in mind that at the beginning of September the Venice Film Festival takes place which makes the prices higher than usual and finding last-minute accommodation might be a struggle. The first Sunday of September is also time for the ‘’Regata Storica’’ – a local rowers and gondoliers race.
The same applies to La Sensa - a festival which takes place in May. Of course, let’s not forget the famous annual Carnevale which happens every February. It first began in the 13th century and continues the tradition up to this point while teleporting its visitors and participants to a colorful fantasyland full of amusing artsy and scary masked faces.
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL PAPADOPOLI VENEZIA
Hotel Papadopoli Venezia is perfectly located in Venice’s historic city center but at the same time, it steps out of the craziness and most crowded area of the city. It’s a few steps away from all means of transportation – the train and bus station are just a bridge away and you can find water taxes in front of the hotel whenever needed.
The rooms offer views of Tolentini Canal or Papadopoli Gardens which makes the stay even more charming. With the boutique design facilities and classic 18th-century Venetian furnishings, the breakfast choice and service are beyond.
Instagram: @hotelpapadopolivenezia
If you are wondering how to move around Venice, keep in mind that the city is entirely built on water and the only way to move from point A to point B rather than your feet is through water transportation – water taxis, vaporettos, gondolas, speedboats, traghettos or ferries are your only option to navigate between the canals and explore the city. This time we entirely chose to count on our feet and didn’t use any of the mentioned above water rides. We loved the challenge of the Venetian ‘’labyrinths’’ because here it’s impossible not to get lost or confused at least once but believe me you will have countless encounters with your confusion while entering closed alleys. Navigation apps don’t entirely do their job when in Venice, but don’t worry you can’t really get lost because every now and then you will see arrows showing the way to Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) or the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), because all roads lead to Rome… I mean to San Marco : )
Gondola ride: Iconic for Venice is the gondola ride – a moment to usually share with the loved one while sailing through Grand Canal and the small romantic Venetian canals, and passing under romantic arch bridges. Sometimes for additional romance, the ride could be accompanied by an Italian live music/serenade. This is definitely something to do at least once in your life. I’ve done it already, so I skipped it this time but you cannot go to Venice and not hop on this treat.
The gondolas are hand-built in special workshops called squeri. Eight different types of wood are used for the construction of those asymmetric-bottomed and spear-shaped 10,85 meters long black boats. Oak, larch, fir, linden, elm, walnut, mahogany, and some cherrywood.
In the beginning, the gondolas were used as transportation of the nobles and many believe that they are black colored because black is the color of elegance, however, some believe that black symbolized mourning of the Venetian Republic, because of the deaths caused by the bubonic plague known as the Black Death – not as romantic, isn’t it? Let’s believe in the official story everyone is spreading today and enjoy Giacomo Casanova’s favourite way of getting to his lover’s hearts/homes.
Sometimes you might find gold details on the gondolas, and this is actually a real gold made by the Batilloro artisans by beating and thinning the gold with a hammer. Those boats are considered a luxury and are used for special events.
Another interesting fact is that the 6 metal lines symbolize the 6 Sistieri di Venezia and the upper part of the iron has the shape of the Doge’s hat.
The gondoliers usually own and maintain their boats which are often passed down from father to son for generations.
Points of interest: Piazza San Marco; Basilica di San Marco; Torre dell’Orologio / Clock Tower; Campanile (for a view overlooking Venice and San Marco); Palazzo Ducale / Doge’s Palace and Bridge of Sighs; Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and San Polo; Canale Grande; Santa Maria della Salute; Scuola Grande di San Rocco; Teatro La Fenice; Ca’d’Oro; a day trip to Murano (home to the famous Murano glass) and Burano (colorful fishing village famous for lace making); Peggy Guggenheim Collection; Scala Contarini del Bovolo; Libreria Acqua Alta di Frizzo Luigi
AMALFI COAST
Amalfi Coast and its vertical landscapes where mountains plunge into the sea consists of 13 awe-inspiring towns. The entire coast is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which keeps the authenticity and the traditions of the place alive. Building new structures is not allowed and renovating the old ones is possible by applying for a difficult-to-get permit and by following strict rules.
Here, life seems to be easy peasy lemon squeezy and you can literally spot lemons everywhere – lemon trees or handcrafted ceramic art decorated with lemons, clothing, souvenirs and ice cream – the lemons are to be found on every corner. Whitewashed, pastel-colored houses, contrasted with the Mediterranean vegetation, bougainvillaea and majolica domes make the coastline look like a fairytale.
I’ve been to Amalfi Coast already but last time I stayed in Positano which might be one of the most beautiful places in Italy but it gets pretty crowded and during peak season I would prefer to be at a more remote part of the coast. This is why we chose to have as a base Scala.
SCALA
Surrounded by dense forests of chestnut trees, Scala is the oldest town and one of the three mountain villages of the Amalfi Coast together with Ravello and Tramonti. Nestled 400m above sea level facing the valley of Dragone and overlooking the beautiful Ravello and the Mediterranean this magnificent UNESCO heritage was once a defensive point of the Republic of Amalfi.
WHERE TO STAY
PALAZZO PASCAL
Palazzo Pascal is a luxury and exclusive noble residence with 7 differently furnished suites all with a lovely view of the Amalfi Coast. Choose between breakfast on your balcony or in the cute common area.
For lunch and dinner, Gli Ulivi Restaurant offers a fine culinary experience of their traditional local dishes.
Instagram: @palazzo_pascal
Book here: Palazzo Pascal
How to move around: The best way to discover Amalfi Coast is by renting a scooter. I would recommend you to do it in advance. As with everything there, this also comes at a price, because Amalfi Coast is definitely not the cheapest Italian destination and you should be prepared to spend a salary or two during your vacation, lol.
We rented a scooter from Scala and the price at that moment was EUR 60 per day.
Why scooter? Because this is the only way not to be stuck in an endless traffic jam and to be able to find a parking spot. Also, it’s part of the Italian life and feeling the gentle breeze while driving through the spiral zigzag coastal roads gives all the vacation vibes.
RAVELLO
Landed on a hill, Ravello is famous for its cliffside gardens, religious buildings from the Medieval period, ancient palaces and noble mansions. Named the City of Music, it hosts one of the oldest music festivals in Italy – the Ravello Festival. Indoor and outdoor concerts are held in the 13th-century, Moorish-style Villa Ruffolo, which is open for visitors during the entire year. Alongside Villa Ruffolo and its stunning gardens and views, you can inspire yourself by visiting another place holding one of the most famous views in the world - Villa Cimbrone. Keep in mind that you need to buy tickets to visit those places. Don’t skip also the contemporary Auditorium designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
AMALFI
Amalfi Coast is named after the historical sandwiched between the water and the mountains, Amalfi town. Amalfi was the first of the Four Maritime Republics of Italy to dominate and have a monopoly of trade with the East. Prepare for a good stroll through the alleys and for climbing many stairs.
Points of interest: the Arab-Norman Sant’Andrea Cathedral; Museo Arsenale; Cloister of Paradise; Museo della Carta (Amalfi Paper Museum)
On the way from Amalfi to Praiano, you will pass by a bridge opening a lovely view over the mesmerizing Fiordo di Furore (closer to Praiano). Fiordo di Furore is a fjord, a small inlet of crystal-clear waters and a small pebble-stone beach snuggled between rocky walls. It is named after Furore village considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. There is an annual world diving competition starting from Furore Fjord bridge, where each year champions from all around the world dive in.
PRAIANO
A place to escape the mass tourism and soak in the authentic atmosphere of typical houses, terraced gardens, and narrow streets which lead you to the sea. A very romantic and peaceful place compared to the neighbouring towns.
Those beautiful lemon trees are located at the pool of a beautiful luxury boutique hotel, named Casa Angelina.
POSITANO
Positano and its nail-biting scene of the seaside, colorful parasols, vertically perched pastel houses and the peaks of the Lattari Mountains. Well deserved, the pearl and most iconic town on the entire coastline.
Much pricier than the rest of the Amalfi Coast but totally one of the must-visit places in Italy. Positano is famous for its handmade leather sandals, cotton and linen clothes (aka ‘’Moda Positano’’), the yellow and green-tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, and the intense fragrance of lemon and colorful bougainvillaea contrasts.
AMALFI COAST TIPS
GO TO:
Enjoy the beautiful gardens of Villa Cimbrone and Villa Ruffolo, Ravello.
Explore the Fiordo di Furore.
Villa Treville / Maestro’s Restaurant and Terrace, Positano for lunch or dinner – the food is great and the views of Positano from there are amazing.
Franco’s Bar, Positano for sunset – the bar opens at 5 PM and they don’t accept reservations, so prepare for long queues. The luxury to sit on the front line and wait for the sunset premier of the day with popcorn will cost you a minimum consumption of 40 EUR per person. The rest of the tables are with a minimum spend of 20 EUR per person.
Casa Angelina, Praiano.
Hike the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of Gods).
DO’S:
Rent a scooter to avoid being stuck for hours in a traffic jam and find parking easily.
Rent a vintage car for a day – we chose Fiat 500 from 1962 from Positano Vintage Dream.
Go for a boat tour.
Book everything in advance, especially the dinners (much in advance) – some people do it months before the trip because the good places are well known and usually fully booked.
Sail over to Capri – you can do a day trip, but I highly recommend you to spend at least a night there. If you are going in peak season book your tickets earlier.
Hunt for handcrafted ceramics.
DON’TS:
Don’t rent a car (except for a day in a vintage car).
Don’t stick to Positano and Amalfi, but do a tour of the Amalfi Coast’s hidden gems, beaches and cute towns such as Ravello, for example.
Don’t leave your belongings unattended as we got robbed – we left our backpack on the floor for taking pictures (oops, it’s me) and we forgot it there. 5-minutes later the backpack with all our documents, credit cards, money, scooter and the keys to our home were gone. We checked everywhere and asked around, but it was nowhere to be found so we had to go to the police station. However, finally, they found the bag with everything except the money... We are still happy because everything else was much more valuable than the 150 EUR we had in our wallet.
Avoid going in peak season.
CAPRI
To get to Capri Island take a ferry from Positano, Naples, Amalfi or Salerno and make sure to book it in advance if traveling during peak season.
KEEP IN MIND:
Many of the ferry routes to Capri run only from April to October and at any time of the year they could be suspended due to bad weather conditions.
Once you arrive in Capri, depending on where you stay, you could get the typical for the island open-top taxi, a very small orange bus, rent a scooter or take the funicular.
The island has two towns/municipalities – Capri and Anacapri. My boyfriend and I chose to stay in Anacapri, which is a bit further from the buzz of the main town. We had an adorable experience and as a small island everything in Capri is close by - we had no problem moving around. We chose the bus option, which is not the most comfortable and pleasant one, but it’s the most affordable and convenient one for the purpose of our trip. If you go for the same option, I recommend you to take a day card. The busses are passing by every 30 minutes. Due to their size, they cannot gather many people and it might get very tight inside. Be ready to get close with someone, lol.
WHERE TO STAY
RELAIS 2 PINI
Relais 2 Pini is a family-run boutique hotel looking for modern design ideas while respecting nature and the past.
Sustainability, tranquility, comfort and heritage preservation are embedded in the core of this property.
Instagram: @2pinicapri
Book your stay: Relais 2 Pini Capri – Hotel in Capri island
ANACAPRI
Anacapri is the highest part of the island and it was connected to the port below via a long staircase of 921 steps. Scala Fenicia or the Phoenician Steps are still existing and make a great walk down to the Marina.
Anacapri is a more relaxed, budget-friendly town holding lovely artisan workshops and the famous Monte Solaro Chair Lift from where you can admire the Gulf of Naples with Vesuvius, the Isle of Ischia, the Gulf of Salerno and the Faraglioni di Capri.
CAPRI
Capri is lively, full of trendy cafes, luxury shopping and vibrant nightlife. Everything here is more pricey as opposed to Anacapri.
WHAT TO DO AND SEE ON CAPRI ISLAND
Points of interest: Quartiere Boffe; Church of Santa Sofia; Casa Rossa Museum; the ruins of Villa Damecuta; the Blue Grotto; Faraglioni di Capri; Piazzetta di Capri (Piazza Umberto I); Church of Santo Stefano; Centro Caprense Ignasio Cerio Museum; the Charterhouse of San Giacomo; the Gardens of Augustus; Bay of Marina Piccola; Via Krupp
Boat trip – you could choose between a group tour or a private one. We went for a 2 hours private boat trip going around the island. The company we chose and could recommend is Capri Luxury Boat Service. The highlight of the tour, of course, are the Faraglioni di Capri.
Faraglioni di Capri are 3 iconic, approximately 100 meters tall rock formations eroded by waves. They are located just off the island’s shore and the best way to visit them is by boat. Each of those rocks has a name - Stella, Faraglione di Mezzo and Faraglione di Fuori (aka Scopolo).
Boats usually pass under the archway of the middle rock (Faraglione di Mezzo) where skippers encourage the couples to kiss each other under the arc - this brings luck and love.
NAPLES
We arrived in Naples by ferry from Capri. The first impression when going out of the ferry was that the city is extremely dirty, full of rubbish and this is not how I remembered it, which made me sad.
Fortunately, it wasn’t that dirty everywhere and as one of the culturally richest cities in Europe and about 3000 years of history, it surely deserves a spot on your visit list. Naples is the home of pizza, holding a labyrinth of ancient tunnels hidden below the city, full of monuments, churches and even a ‘’hidden’’ Roman Forum covered and built over with modern structures.
DO’S:
Discover the fascinating underground of Naples (Napoli Sotterranea) – 40 meters below the ground and 136 steps between before and now – previously used as cisterns for fresh water supply, emptied during the cholera disease and replaced afterwards by being a hideaway during WWII.
Try the authentic Neapolitan pizza at Da Michele. The pizzeria was founded in 1870 and serves only two types of pizza – Marinara and Margherita (5 EUR each). Prepare for long waiting times if you want to sit inside. TIP: Order your pizza in the bar opposite the restaurant (the one facing Da Michele) – from which you can grab a drink, order and enjoy the pizzas without the long queues. And if possible, avoid sitting too close to the building… we got washed underwear drops from the balcony above.
More pizza… you should also try the pizzas at Gino e Toto Sorbillo – the same story – nerve-racking waiting times, but we do everything for eating good pizza.
Book your visits online whenever possible.
Go to Procida island, which is one of the three islands in the Bay of Naples including Capri and Ischia.
Pompeii and Herculaneum make a perfect day trip from Naples.
Be careful of pickpockets and remember that Naples is considered one of the cities with the most crime in the world.
DON’TS
Don’t even think of starting a diet before or during your trip to Naples, keep this for after.
Don’t say no to a coffee, because drinking coffee is seen as a ritual in Naples. Keep in mind that the coffee is always served with a glass of water which is supposed to clean your mouth before appreciating the coffee, so the other way around doesn’t work and would mean that you didn’t like the coffee.
Don’t walk around wearing too many pieces of jewellery or expensive items.
Points of interest: Castel dell’Ovo – a seafront castle, located on the former island of Megaride; Castel Sant’Elmo; Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (MADRE); Chlostri di Santa Chiara; Via San Gregorio Armeno; Gesu Nuovo; Piazza Bellini; Diego Armando Maradona Stadium; Pio Monte della Misericordia; National Archaeological Museum; Lungomare; Cappella Sansevero
When life gives you lemons, make lemonade and don’t forget that pizza a day keeps the bad mood away. Well, maybe don’t listen to my advice about the pizza because then even the Amalfi Coast’s narrow roads and staircases won’t help you get back in shape.
In Italy, la dolce vita is to be felt on every corner. Once you set a foot in Bella Italia new horizons will open. Scenes of ‘’The Tourist’’ in Venice, moments of pure joy – the sound of the birds, barking dogs or singing chefs, the vibrant city mood full of laughter, passionate loud talking, horn honking, artistic vibe, fashion and ancient Roman atmosphere harmonizing with the modern society.
A presto e grazie mille!