Croatia – a country full of history, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, beautiful architecture, mesmerizing nature and let’s not forget to mention the 1246 islands, islets and reefs nestled on its territory. Many of you know Croatia through the famous ‘’Game of Thrones’’ series, but this Balkan country is so much more than that and has something for every taste.
We selected the most interesting hot spots plus plenty of less known hidden gems for our two and a half-week journey. Another crazy itinerary, but it brought us to some jaw-dropping locations, which we wouldn’t have discovered if we didn’t do our homework - big research. If you love having it all while on vacation, this is your trip – adventure, vacation, exploration, luxury, some wild, but safe fiesta and zero siesta. Prepare to drive and travel by boat more than 2500 km in 17 days.
We discovered most of the country – from towns, villages, National Parks, the entire Dalmatian Coast and few islands. The historical influences in the architecture are making Croatia one of the most beautiful European countries and a total bucket list destination. Not convinced yet?! Keep reading.
However, before sharing our plan, here is some general info about the country:
Location: The Republic of Croatia is part of Central and Southeast Europe on the Adriatic Sea. Its borders are Slovenia, Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and the Adriatic Sea.
Size: 56,594 km2
Capital: Zagreb
Population: 4,076,000
How to get there: By car, train, bus, ferry and air. Croatia has 9 international airports sorted by passenger traffic – Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Pula, Rijeka, Osijek, Brac, Losinj.
Language: Standart Croatian, followed by Standart Bosnian and Standart Serbian.
Currency: Even though Croatia is in the European Union, its currency remains the Croatian kuna (HRK). For reference: 1 EUR = 7.49 HRK ; 1 USD = 6.42 HRK
Seasons: 4 seasons with hot dry summers, mild spring and fall, and cold winters.
Best time to visit: For best temperatures, perfect for beach days, go during the summer months, from June to September, although it gets very busy. The negative sides are that the accommodations are often sold out if you don’t book in advance and everything is much pricier than usual.
If you simply want to explore their national parks and beautiful towns (and save some money), you can go during the spring or fall season.
What to pack/expect during the summer months: Sunscreen, insect repellent, just in case umbrella/raincoat, swimwear, but also some warmer clothes as the evenings might get chilly. For once, I wasn’t prepared for that and missed very much my long pants and a jacket. Keep in mind to pack plenty of patience and plan more time when sitting in a restaurant if you are in a hurry as often the waiters are quite slow. Nice, but slow.
How to get around: We chose renting a car (from Lutar Rent a Car) because this gives us the freedom we need to discover as much as possible, but the public transportation in Croatia is very well organized and if you don’t plan to visit many locations, this is your best option.
To get to the islands, there are a lot of great ferry connections from the big coastal towns. Pay attention that not all islands are well connected between each other, or have connections once per week. The ferry from Hvar to Vis, for example, departs only on Tuesdays, so we had to go back to Split and catch the ferry to Vis from there. If you don’t mind paying a fortune, you could also rent a boat taxi, of course.
DAY 1.
GVA – SPU flight
Split - early arrival
We took the airport shuttle bus to Split. One-way ticket costs 35 HRK (around 5 euro) per person and it takes approximately 30 – 40 minutes to the main bus station of Split.
The airport is located 25 km from Split and very close to Trogir (5 km), so if you prefer to skip Split, you can straight head to Trogir which was our second stop of the day.
Our idea was to get our car rental at 1 PM from town, so we had some time to kill and explore this popular Croatian city.
SPLIT
The ancient centre of Split is hidden behind the city walls and opens an entirely new universe where the time seems to have stopped. A perfect starting point to discover the country.
Split looks like a movie scene, but history has always been the main ‘’film director’’ here and has left the most beautiful décors behind.
Must-see: Diocletian’s Palace – greatly preserved 4th-century complex constructed from lustrous white stone transported from Brac Island. It was built for the Roman emperor Diocletian who spent lavishly importing columns and 12 sphinxes from Egypt, marble from Italy and Greece. The Diocletian’s Palace is the core and the living heart of Split, keeping the history safe behind the city walls. To feel the vibe and get in touch with the past enter from one of the 4 gates all named after a metal: Golden Gate, Silver Gate, Bronze Gate and Iron Gate.
Visit also: St. Duje’s Cathedral, Peristil Square, Marjan, Campanile, Split Archaeological Museum, Klis Fortress
Split – Trogir
Distance: 30 km / 30 - 40 min
TROGIR
Trogir is the second place we visited in Croatia and it left us speechless with its maze of cobblestone streets paved with local white stone, the pretty monuments and its splendid Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance architecture.
Trogir is also known as the Little Venice of Dalmatia or Stone Beauty. There are no canals in the town itself, but the Venetian rule is stamped within the walls of this marvel of the Adriatic Coast.
This historic UNESCO World Heritage town is situated within medieval walls on a tiny island separated from the Croatian mainland and Ciovo Island by small canals and connected by bridges.
Must-see: The view from St. Lawrence Cathedral (Katedrala Sv. Lovre). The cathedral is one of Trogir's most famous landmarks and was built between the 12th and 17th centuries representing the peak of the Dalmatian medieval plaster art. Often considered as one of the most impressive architectural achievements in Croatia, each year this building nestled in the heart of Trogir is attracting visitors interested in history, religion and splendid architecture.
The cathedral is mainly in Romanesque style, but the vault inside is Gothic (built during the 15th century). Climbing up to the 47-meter-tall, 14th-century bell tower is a must if you want to see the beautiful bay views and the rooftops of Trogir. Opposite the cathedral is the Clock Tower and City Loggia. On the left side is Cipiko Palace.
Entrance fee: 30 HRK
Visit also: Cipiko Palace, Kamerlengo Castle and St. Mark’s Tower, the Clock Tower and City Loggia, the City Gates: Land Gate, Church of St. Peter, Benedictine Monastery of St. Nicholas, Civic Museum
Trogir – Primosten
Distance: 33 km / 30 – 40 min
PRIMOSTEN
Once an island and a medieval fishing village, today Primosten is connected to land with a bridge. Its well-preserved medieval architecture is bringing the historical atmosphere to these days. This charming coastal town located between Sibenik and Trogir is super popular among tourists.
Visit: St. George, the Church of Gospa od Milosti (Our Lady of Mercy), St. Rocco, Velika Raduca Beach, Beach Primosten
Best sunset viewpoint: Kip Gospe od Loreta u Primostenu (Our Lady of Loreto Statue) – located on a hilltop with mesmerizing views over the Dalmatian Coast
Tip: Grab a drink from the bar there and enjoy one of the most mesmerizing sunsets.
Right after sunset, we headed to overnight in Knin, because we wanted to be closer to our next destination. For reference, going straight from Primosten to Izvor Cetine is 90.8 km / 1 h 36 min; from Split to the springs is 81 km, or approximately 1 h 30 min.
DAY 2.
Knin – Izvor Cetine
Distance: 35.6 km / 36 min
IZVOR CETINE
Early wakeup to have it completely for ourselves, but we were not alone.
Floating in the Dragon Eye?! Read below why you should think twice.
Cetine Spring / Izvor Cetine is impressive with its crystal-clear waters, blue-green shades and its extraterrestrial shape. Located in southern Croatia at the foothills of the Dinara mountain range, Izvor Cetine is the source of Cetina river, which flows 101 km to the Adriatic Sea and is the water-richest river in Croatia.
This official Croatian national monument (Cetine Spring) is also the main source of drinking water in the area and protected hydrological monument since 1971. Please, do not litter!
Perfect environment for many plant and animal species.
Right next to it / close to the viewing platform is built the Serbian Orthodox Church of The Ascension of Christ.
Often also called The Eye of the Earth, or the Blue Eye, its depth of over 150 meters (about 15 meters in diameter) and the freezing cold waters (between 4 - 8 Celsius) are alarming every bit of our human self-preservation instinct to stay away.
⚠️ When I informed myself about the water temperature I didn’t expect it to be thaaaat frrr-brr-eaking cold, but once I put a foot in it, I understood how paralyzing those pretty karst spring waters could be.
Don’t forget your drone if you have one.
Coordinates: 43.9769° N, 16.4297° E
Izvor Cetine – Krka National Park
Distance: 58 km / 1 h
KRKA NATIONAL PARK
Krka National Park (109 km2) consists of 7 travertine waterfalls of the Krka River (72.5 km long), which makes the river a natural and karst phenomenon. The layers created from the travertine built the waterfalls. Those formations are very fragile and any environmental changes or human activities could harm them. For this beauty to be preserved, previously allowed swimming in the waterfalls is prohibited since January 2021.
There are many cultural and historical monuments found within Krka National Park, some of which are Krka Monastery, Ethno Villages and 5 ancient Krka fortresses.
There are 2 entrances to the park. The main entrance is Lozovac and this is where we entered from. You can either take a bus down to the ‘’interesting part’’ and start your discovery there, either walk the entire way (875 m) down a small path until you reach the actual tour starting point. We went down walking and it was very enjoyable, but we took the bus on the way back.
The main walking trail (Skradinski Buk) in both directions takes about 2 hours.
Entrance fee:
Jan/Feb/Mar/Nov/Dec - 30 HRK
April/May/Oct – 100 HRK
June/July/Aug/Sept – 200 HRK
Krka National Park – Zadar
Distance: 76 km / 1 h 14 min
ZADAR
We didn’t spend a lot of time in Zadar itself, but whenever we go back to Croatia, I will definitely want to breathe longer the atmosphere of the oldest continuously inhabited Croatian city. Medieval city walls, quiet streets of marble and according to Hitchcock ‘’the most beautiful sunset in the world’’.
WHERE TO STAY:
Falkensteiner Hotel & SPA Iadera
Early mornings by the pool starting with a gentle kiss from the sun, olive tree shades, sea breeze, the sound of the waves and grasshoppers chirping around.
Falkensteiner Resort Puntaskala located on the Adriatic Sea peninsula not far from Zadar consists of 3 properties:
Falkensteiner Hotel & SPA Iadera – don’t skip relaxing at the amazing Acquapura SPA area. Adults only.
Family Hotel Diadora – family-friendly. Children are allowed.
Premium Apartments Senia
You can choose from numerous restaurants, bars, a lot of sports activities, great sports facilities, wide pool areas or if you prefer you can go to the beach and enjoy the seawater there.
Instagram: @falkensteiner.puntaskala
Book here: www.falkensteiner.com
DAY 3.
Beach time and lunch at the Falkensteiner Hotel & SPA Iadera
Zadar – Pula
Distance: 396.3 km / 4 h 5 min
PULA
Italy?! No, this is Croatia.
Pula is one of the most visited towns of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. Famous for its beaches, protected harbor and Roman ruins. Must-see: The Amphiteather known as the Arena of Pula was built at the same time as the Colosseum in Rome and is the only Roman amphiteather to have four side towers entirely preserved. In the past the amphiteather was used for gladiator fights, nowadays it is a venue for many different events like Pula Film Festival, concerts, opera, ballet etc. There are also weekly historical and entertainment gladiator fights during the summer months. The spectacle where you can see this is called “Spectacvla Antiqua”.
Btw, don’t skip visiting the Amphiteather by sunset. The view through the Arena’s arcs creates a true artwork.
Fun fact: Did you know that Pula broke the Guinness record for the largest tie in the world in 2003? The 808m tie has been wrapped around Pula Arena.
Entrance fee: 70 HRK Visit also: Fortress Kastel, Temple of Augustus, Pula Aquarium, Istria Historical & Maritime Museum, Arch of the Sergii, Zerostrasse
DAY 4.
Pula – Rovinj
Distance: 35.9 km / 45 min
ROVINJ
This day there was an enormous storm on the way to Rovinj, but luckily it stopped on time and we had the chance to enjoy this amazing gem of the Istrian Peninsula. It very much felt like Italy to me plus I won’t speak how delicious the food was…
Rovinj is without a doubt one of our favourite places in Croatia and one of the most photogenic towns on the Adriatic Sea. Together with the entire coastline and its 22 islands, it is a protected natural heritage area.
The twisting cobblestone streets of Rovinj lead to the hilltop church St. Euphemia which opens beautiful views.
Keep in mind that Rovinj’s old town is car-free. We’ve booked our accommodation in this vehicle-free zone and had to pay 12 HRK/h for parking outside the bustling town.
You might want to visit: Church of St. Euphemia, Port of Rovinj, Town Clock, The Balbi Arch, Rovinj Aquarium, Plaza Balota
DAY 5.
Rovinj – Plitvice Lakes National Park
Distance: 239.6 km / 3h 6 min
PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK
Welcome to Croatia’s first national park which is well-deserved landed in the UNESCO World Heritage List - time to explore Plitvice Lakes.
Plitvice National Park consists of 16 terraced named and some smaller unnamed karst lakes divided into Upper and Lower Lakes. They are joined by a giant network of waterfalls, that extend into a limestone canyon. These jaw-dropping nature creations are generated thanks to the tufa formation, followed by the building of the travertine barriers which resulted in the formation of the lakes.
You can choose from 7 different routes or 4 hiking trails to go around and enjoy the beauty of the cascading lakes, vegetation and caves.
Paid parking area on site. If you want to park for free you will have to walk quite long to access the Park.
Swimming and drones are prohibited.
Early bird benefits - less crowded.
Electric boat and panorama “train” ride are included in the price.
There are two entrances and we entered from Entrance 1, but no matter where you enter from, purchase your tickets online in advance to avoid the long queues. Entrance fee: • high season - 250 HRK • low season - 80 HRK
Plitvice Lakes National Park – Sibenik
Distance: 172.7 km / 1 h 45 min
WHERE TO STAY:
Hotel Armerun
We spent two exceptional days in this boutique heritage hotel - a place where history meets modernity and transforms it into a trendy, but romantic and super charming experience. Located in the heart of Sibenik, Hotel Armerun is outstanding with its design, quality of service, accommodation and breakfast choice.
Instagram: @armerunhotel
Book here: www.armerun.com
In Sibenik, we met and shared some beautiful moments with my best friend and her husband ‘’spoiling” their honeymoon, lol. I love them!
DAY 6.
SIBENIK
Must-see: St. Michael’s Fortress, Cathedral of St. James and Barone Fortress
St. Michael’s Fortress is the oldest inhabited area of the city, which makes it the perfect starting point for exploration. Follow the history and development of Sibenik from the beginning. On the steps down you should pay attention and visit the Cathedral of St. James (Katedrala Sv. Jakova), which is the most important architectural monument of the Renaissance in Croatia. The cathedral is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its construction started at the beginning of the 15th century and it was completed 100 years later. What is special about it, is that its structure is built entirely from stone.
Barone Fortress is situated even higher and opens unique views on the Sibenik archipelago.
Entrance fee:
Cathedral of St. James – 15 HRK
From March to October: St. Michael’s Fortress - 60 HRK; Barone Fortress - 45 HRK;
Combined ticket - 70 HRK
From November to February – St. Michael’s Fortress - 30 HRK; Barone Fortress - 20 HRK; Combined ticket - 35 HRK
Sibenik – Jadrija Beach
Distance: 15.5 km / 20 min
JADRIJA BEACH
We went there mainly for the cabins in different colours and it was totally worth it. Super cute location.
Jadrija Beach – Tribunj
Distance: 14.4 km / 19 min
TRIBUNJ
A cute village we decided to visit on the way to the famous sunset spot in the area. It’s nice, but not a must-see. If you have more time don’t hesitate and go to simply soak into the peaceful atmosphere and its charm.
Tribunj – Vidikovac Kamenjak
Distance: 26.5 km / 33 min
VIDIKOVAC KAMENJAK
Vidikovac Kamenjak is situated 283 m above sea level and opens amazing views of Vransko Jezero and the Kornati Islands. From there you could admire the sunset at its best.
Entrance fee: 20 HRK
Vidikovac Kamenjak – Sibenik
Distance: 38.7 km / 42 min
DAY 7.
KORNATI ISLANDS
Full-day private boat tour (9 AM – 6 PM) starting from Sibenik or Zadar area.
Other highlights: military bunkers, Hitler’s Eyes, St. Nicholas, Tarac fortress, Prvic Luka
Kornati National Park makes 12% of all the islands in the Croatian Adriatic. Its area of about 320 km2 and 89 islands and mesmerizing sceneries are jaw-dropping. Prepare for great snorkelling, swimming and cliff diving. On the way, you might spot gulls, dolphins, or sea turtles.
The islands are uninhabited and deserted.
Sibenik – Split
Distance: 89 km / 1 h 5
SPLIT
WHERE TO STAY:
Heritage Hotel FERMAI
Hotel FERMAI is located in a historical building from the early 1900s and completed by architect Petar Senjanovic, who brought a touch of recognizable Viennese Art Nouveau to Split.
Instagram: @hotelfermai
Book here: www.hotelfermai.com
DAY 8.
Split – Imotski (Red Lake & Blue Lake)
Distance: 82 km / 1 h 24 min
RED LAKE
Red Lake (Crveni Jezero) is located in a very seismic area and it is composed of two hollows of different ages, both caused by earthquakes. Being one of the deepest pits of the Dinaric karst, it has earned its name thanks to the reflection of the red rocks in the water. Since it is supplied by underground springs, it never gets dry.
There are several viewpoints from where you could admire the lake. One of them is exactly from the car road, so if you are not keen to walk and just want to take a quick look, then stop by, snap it and go. We spent a bit longer there as we preferred to walk a bit higher.
BLUE LAKE
Blue Lake (Modro Jezero) similar to Red Lake is a karst lake and lies in a deep sinkhole, formed after the collapse of large caves centuries ago. The two lakes lay not far from each other, but to see Blue Lake you have to do a bit more effort and hike down to it. There is a good path, so prepare for an easy, rewarding walk that might finish with a swim in the beautiful waters of Blue Lake. The depth of Blue Lake varies depending on the season – it is known to disappear entirely when there are dry periods. When this happens, the locals use its basin as a football field.
Drive to Dubrovnik
Distance: 175 km / 3 h 10 min
Keep in mind that currently to go to Dubrovnik, you have to cross the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina and drive at their territory for 9 km. This stretch of land between Central and South Dalmatia is called Neum Corridor. A free passage agreement has been signed between the two countries.
Right now Croatia is building a bridge, which according to the plan should be finished in 2022 and will completely bypass Bosnia and Herzegovina, but until then this is the fastest way to reach Dubrovnik. The only other alternative is to take a car ferry from Ploce to Trpanj (1 hour), or a direct passenger-only ferry from Split to Dubrovnik.
WHERE TO STAY:
Sun Gardens Dubrovnik
Sun Gardens Dubrovnik was my imaginary “Game of Thrones” contemporary castle located not too far from King’s Landing. I am neither the “Queen of Dragons” nor I can speak to them, but I love listening to the crashing sea waves and enjoying those mesmerizing sceneries and views of the Elaphiti Islands. Expect a rich breakfast, several restaurants to choose from, a great SPA area, gym, pools and a lovely beach.
Instagram: @sun_gardens_dubrovnik
Book here: www.dubrovniksungardens.com
DAY 9.
DUBROVNIK
Dubrovnik stole my heart with its medieval architecture, limestone streets and squares. This ancient town rich in history and mesmerizing sceneries is also known for great dining, nightlife and sun. Its popularity among “Game of Thrones” fans made Dubrovnik one of the most desirable Croatian travel destinations. The beautiful Old Town snuggled on the Dalmatian Coast is inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Must-see: Fort Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress) is built just outside the city walls upon a 37-meter high rock overlooking the sea and the Walls of Dubrovnik. Beginning of the construction 1018; completed in the 16th century. Known as “Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar”, this fortress and a theater is also very famous for its resistance against the Venetian rule. Above the entrance is written: NON-BENE PRO TOTO LIBERTAS VENDITUR AURO, which means “Freedom is not sold for all the gold of the world”. Entrance fee: 50 HRK
Visit: Stradun of Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik Cathedral and Treasury, Loggia Square, The City Gates, The Large Fountain of Onofrio and St. Saviour Church, The Dominican Monastery, The Franciscan Church and Monastery, The Rector’s Palace and Cultural Historical Museum, The Fort of St. John, Banje Beach, The Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, The Island of Lokrum
You could also:
Walk on the Old City Walls
Do a Game of Thrones Walking Tour of Dubrovnik
Take the Dubrovnik cable car for amazing views over the town or simply drive to Srd for the best photo spot (see on the map at the end of my blog post). Best time to visit it is for sunset.
Do a day trip to Montenegro, or Bosnia and Herzegovina
Parking in Dubrovnik is not the best-organized part of Dubrovnik, especially if you want to park within a walking distance to town. Keep in mind that the Old Town is a car-free zone, so you have to park outside the city walls and the parking is quite pricey during high season.
TIP: Purchase Dubrovnik Card online, or from the Tourist Office in Dubrovnik and you will get discounted/ free entry into many of the monuments and free bus transportation. This is allowing you to save up to 50%. Choose from a card for 1,3 or 7 days.
DAY 10.
Dubrovnik – Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
Distance: 138 km / 2 h 22 min
MOSTAR
One of the most picturesque and famous cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, historically been the capital of Herzegovina. Situated along the Neretva River and known for its reconstructed medieval arched bridge Stari Most (Old Bridge). Mostar’s charming old town and its wonderful cobblestone streets will make you want to shoot at every corner.
You have probably heard of the famous Mostar Bridge jump. In the past young men have jumped off the 24-metre bridge to impress the local girls, but nowadays they do it for money. A group of guys pitch the tourists hungry to see the ‘’show’’ and once they collected enough cash, the game is on. Keep in mind that this jump is for experienced people and it isn’t safe. There are several death cases over the years.
Mostar – Blagaj Tekija
Distance: 14 km / 15 min
BLAGAJ TEKIJA
From Mostar, we decided to visit the famous Dervish House Blagaj Tekija, which is a beautiful nearly 600 years old religious site located in a calm village, and situated under a cliff, next to Buna River.
After we explored Mostar and Blagaj Tekija, we headed back to Dubrovnik not without problems this time. We were stopped by the police in Bosnia and Herzegovina and one of the policemen tried in 1000 different ways to ‘’milk’’ some money from us, but in the end, he didn’t have any reason to give us a penalty and he had to let us go.
DUBROVNIK
Once we were back in Dubrovnik we enjoyed the facilities of our hotel (Sun Gardens Dubrovnik) for a while. After we headed out to watch the beautiful sunset at Srd viewpoint, to have dinner and do our last evening strolls at the cute alleys of the Old Town.
DAY 11.
Dubrovnik – Split
Distance: 213 km / 3 h
We left back our rental car, roamed once again the streets of Split and got our ferry to Brac Island / Bol.
Split – Bol (Brac) Ferry
This route is served by 3 companies: Jadrolinija, Kapetan Luka and Adriatic Fast Ferries
Journey time: between 55 min and 1 h 10 min, depending on the route
Ticket prices for foot passengers: between 40 HRK – 100 HRK
BRAC ISLAND
Brac Island with its 396 km2 is the largest island in Dalmatia and the third largest in the Adriatic Sea. The main town is Supetar, which we, unfortunately, didn’t visit.
We stayed only in Bol for the famous white-pebble beach Zlatni Rat.
A great activity we couldn’t do as I did not feel very well the 2 next days of our trip, but I still recommend, is to hike the highest point of the island – Vidova Gora. Vidova Gora is located above the village of Bol. The hike is supposed to take about 3.5 hours and apparently, the views from the top are wonderful.
DAY 12.
BOL / ZLATNI RAT
We spent most of the day at the famous Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn Beach). To get the best perspective and shooting opportunities, bringing your drone here is a must. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds and to benefit from the soft morning light.
Did you know that Zlatni Rat is a geomorphological wonder, protected by law as a significant landscape? I’ve recently found out, but I see why. Under the influence of the currents and the wind Zlatni Rat is changing the shape – sometimes it bents to the west or the east, and sometimes you can also find a small pool popping on it.
Bol (Brac) – Hvar
Served by Jadrolinija
Journey time: 50 min
Ticket price for foot passengers: 100 HRK
HVAR
Rich in history, culture, activities and beautiful views, Hvar turned to be our favourite allrounder island on the Adriatic Sea. If you want a calm, secluded island with great beaches, I would choose Vis Island, but for a livelier atmosphere, lifestyle and beautiful architecture, go for it, Hvar is the place.
Must-see: Tvrdava Fortica – visit this medieval castle for a closer touch with history, and amazing views of Hvar Town and Pakleni Islands. The fortress is the symbol of the town of Hvar and surely cannot get unnoticed.
You can easily walk up to the fortress, which is what I recommend you to do. It is a pleasant walk through the city with some stairs to climb, but after the stairs, you can enjoy the tree-shades, the song of the birds and the chirping of the crickets. However, if for any reason you cannot or don’t want to climb up, you can also get a taxi for about 100 HRK to bring you there.
Entrance fee: 50 HRK
Visit also: St. Stephen’s Square and Cathedral, Venetian Loggia and Clock Tower, Inland lavender fields, Franciscan Monastery, Dubovica Beach, Stari Grad, Jelsa, Beach Skala (Sveta Nedelja), Beach Prapatna, Beach Pokonji Dol, Beach Malo Zarace, Beach Zucica, Maslenica Beach, Beach Ivan Dolac
Dining tip: Always book the restaurants in advance, because usually the best ones are fully booked already few days in advance.
DAY 13.
HVAR
Exploring Hvar in a retro car
We rented a Volkswagen Beetle for the day and had the opportunity to roam the island with this retro beauty. It turned out that our little VW Beetle friend also likes drinking Coca Cola - the oil for the car was in a Coke bottle, lol. Luckily, it is not driving on strong alcohol, because then we would have had a real problem with the police. Ok, joking aside, the rental car service was great, easy and very efficient. If you are wondering about the company we rented it at – it’s Rapidus Rent.
First, we drove to Stari Grad, which is the oldest town on the island and one of the oldest towns in Croatia. There are plenty of small charming streets to explore.
Next, we went to Prapatna Beach, after to Dubovica Beach and we stopped for pictures and videos close to olive trees on the way back to Hvar Town. There my lovely boyfriend ran over my foot with the car. Luckily, I was completely fine afterwards and we were able to continue our shooting and enjoy the rest of the trip. The time flew faster than expected though and we had to go back to town and give the car back.
DAY 14.
HVAR
Hvar Fortress (Tvrdava Fortica) discovery and beach day at Hula Hula Beach Bar, Hvar Town
DAY 15.
Hvar – Split – Vis ferry
Early wakeup call to hop on the ferry to Split, because the direct ferries from Hvar to Vis Island are currently only once per week (on Tuesdays)
Hvar – Split is served by Kapetan Luka, Jadrolinija and Krilo Shipping Company
Journey time: between 55 min and 2 h 05 min depending on the route
Ticket price for foot passengers: from 40 HRK – 110 HRK
Split – Vis
Served by Jadrolinija
Journey time: between 1 h 25 min and 2 h 20 min depending on the route
Ticket price for foot passengers: from 45 HRK – 55 HRK
VIS
Vis is a small quiet island (89.72 km2), recently opened for tourism and still keeping its authenticity and charm. Strategically important, the island was known as the key of the Adriatic, the Adriatic Gibraltar or little Malta. Until 1989, Vis served as a Yugoslav military base. This is the reason why foreign visitors were not allowed to enter its territory for 30 years. Today, exploring those underground military tunnels, the biggest ex rocket base ‘’Stupisce’’ and ex Atomic rocket command ‘’Vela Glava’’ is a main tourist attraction and often offered as a guided tour. Usually, those tours also include a visit to the highest peak of the Island - mountain Hum and a climb to Tito’s cave.
Vis is a great starting point to explore Blue Cave, and Green Cave, some amazing beaches and other islands.
We were thinking to do a boat tour, but we finally decided to rent a scooter and simply explore the island at our own pace and interests.
First stop, Stoncica Beach – very nice sandy beach (finally a sandy beach in Croatia), but it’s more for families and not as calm as we wished. It is located near the Stoncica lighthouse on the north side of the island.
After that, we continued to Smokova Beach. There are two ways to get to this beach: the first one is by boat, which is the easier one, but we drove to the closest possible spot with the scooter to hike down to the beach (offroad adventure). Once you park, prepare to enjoy a 500 m ‘goat path’ experience in nature. Aah and there is a bonus to the walk – you might find some snakes so watch your step! We saw two of those ‘’little fellas’’… Luckily, they just sloped off down the rocks.
However, totally worth it. We had Smokova Beach only for ourselves except for another couple. Secluded sandy beach, giving all the Robinson Crusoe vibes. The water is crystal clear turquoise blue, and shallow very far from the shore. You can hear every noise of the little insects, birds and the curious lizards coming around.
True heaven on Earth with one negative point – it urgently needs some cleaning as there were so many plastics and other leftovers on the beach. We tried to collect as much as possible, but the beach will need more than 2 people. Despite that, it still feels magical and untouched.
If it happens for you to visit this place, please don’t build any ‘’creative structures’’ from the rubbish (there was a ‘’castle’’ made of bottles, masks etc.), but take it with you and recycle it instead. Thank you!
In the evening we went for dinner at the most beautiful historical and dining location on the island, and not only – Fort George. I couldn’t recommend more this place. Beautiful fortress and setup, amazing views, great service, delicious food and… I saw a falling star... Time to wish something!
DAY 16.
VIS
In the morning we went back to Smokova Beach to say hello to the little lizards and enjoy the mesmerizing waters once again. This time we were completely alone. I could’ve spent the entire day there, but we also wanted to visit the once voted ‘’the most beautiful beach in Europe’’ – Stiniva Cove, so we had to leave.
Stiniva Cove is a famous tourist ‘’attraction’’ and many boats depart daily to visit this white-pebble stone gem, so it is not as enjoyable if you want to have your peace, but it’s a must-see. Snuggled between the high rocks, it gives you a feeling of being protected and it’s really special. There is also a small tavern built on the beach.
How to get there: Most common way to visit Stiniva Cove is by boat (tours), but we had our scooter and hiked down instead. The elevation is about 150 m and the distance is approximately 1 km. The hike starts very easy, but going closer to the beach, it gets trickier and you might need to use your butt and hands as it becomes steeper and the rocks get more slippery. I found it easier to go up, but both ways are doable and most people could make it.
We didn’t have a lot of time at the beach, neither we did enjoy the crowd, but the scenery is breathtaking. Maybe not the most beautiful beach in Europe, but it’s one of those beaches that could leave you speechless for a moment.
After the beach hopping we strolled through the town and it was already time to take our bags and get on our last ferry for this trip.
Vis – Split
Split, here we are again! I stopped counting the times we had to stop by and go - this time for real...
DAY 17.
Goodbye, Croatia!
Croatia impressed us with its medieval architecture, historical sights, beautiful nature and kind people. Captivating and very welcoming, we had a blast exploring the Dalmatian Coast, the Croatian islands, all UNESCO sites and national parks. The words cannot describe it, even the pictures are representing only a slight reflection of what the eyes could see. I have to admit – Croatia has never been a travel priority for me, neither from the first countries coming to my mind when I want to escape somewhere, but surprisingly it turned into one of my favourite European destinations.