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  • Writer's pictureIzabel Philippa

Tunisia in 10 Days │ Mirage or Reality?! Saharan Sandstorms, Luxury Staycation and a Wild Girl Trip.

Welcome to Tunisia – this North African, still less known and kinda untouched, but quite evolved destination.


Tunisia is rich in history and culture - a country full of jaw-dropping sceneries, hidden gems, movie set locations, desert and sea oases.


Here you can enjoy the awe-inspiring blues of the Mediterranean, drive the dramatic route through the iconic Atlas Mountains, visit breathtaking canyons, and abandoned Berber villages, or simply get lost in your thoughts and explore the epic Sahara Desert. A place to release your nomadic state of mind and let yourself wander wild and free like a grain of sand.


Ong el Jemel


We got caught in some Saharan sandstorms, but this was part of the adventure and I am glad we were able to witness this occurrence as well. To me, authenticity is a key and very important experience while travelling, plus I’ve found out that the ‘’flying sand’’ helps for the creation of some amazing and very wild video effects. The sand taste wasn’t my favourite though and the wind blowout shaped my hair into a nest which was difficult to deal with, but those moments except on camera will be forever captured in my memories. Even if I could, I wouldn’t change a thing during this trip.






 

GENERAL INFORMATION

Dougga

Tunisia with its geo-strategic location in the Mediterranean has a rich history. On these lands you can find remains from the 6 centuries of Roman presence. Tunisia was a Punic, Roman, Vandal, Byzantine, Arab and Muslim, Ottoman, Husseinite, and a French protectorate. The country gained its independence in 1956.


One of the first date producers in the world and also in the top 4 olive oil producers worldwide after Spain, Italy and Greece, Tunisia with its 1300km of seashore and infinite lengths of desert landscapes is super diverse and offers a unique experience for all tastes.







Location: The Republic of Tunisia is the northernmost country in Africa. Its borders are the Mediterranean Sea to the north and east; Libya to the southeast and Algeria to the west and southwest. Together with Algeria, Libya, Mauritania and Morocco, Tunisia is part of the Maghreb region (Maghreb means ‘’the west where the sun sets’’).


Size: 163,610km2


Capital: Tunis


Population: According to the latest data 12 million, from which 2,5 million live in the capital


Official languages: Tunisian Arabic and French


Currency: Tunisian Dinar. For reference: 1 TND = 0.31 EUR; 1 TND = 0.33 USD

It is strictly prohibited to import or export Tunisian Dinars in or out of the country as their currency is known as a ‘’closed currency’’. Be aware that this is a criminal offence. Once you withdraw or exchange some money in Tunisia make sure to keep the receipt, because you might need it if you want to turn the leftovers into another currency before leaving the country.


Carthage

Best time to visit: Depending on what the purpose of your visit is, there are several good periods you could consider when booking your trip.


Discovery: If you want to be almost alone and to have the best places all to yourself – April/May is a great choice. These months are considered spring in Tunisia and the temperatures are a bit cooler, especially at night and early morning. During the day usually, you can enjoy the warm sun kisses on your skin. Autumn is similar to spring, so you might choose to go and explore the country in October/early November instead. Don’t forget the sunscreen, no matter the season.


Sunbathing: For sun-worshippers June, July and August are the months to plan, but you could also go in September and have similar temperatures and less crowded beaches.


Ramadan: We accidentally booked our trip during their holy month Ramadan – this is a month of prayers and fasting from dawn to sunset - no eating, smoking, drinking (including water) etc. Except for religious reasons, the Muslims do it to cleanse the body and because it reminds them of the suffering of the poor. During that time of the year, all restaurants are closed, activities and opening hours might be disrupted.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The beginning and ending times of Ramadan are different every year and may vary as they are based on the sighting of the Moon. Ramadan begins at the first observance of the new Moon over Mecca, Saudi Arabia. As Islam follows the Lunar calendar which is 11 days shorter than the Solar calendar, this month happens at a different time every year. A few years ago, I’ve experienced Ramadan also in Morocco, but back then according to the Solar calendar it was in June, this year it was in April.

Of course, the visitors/tourists can eat and drink at their accommodation, but otherwise in my opinion it would be disrespectful to do so in public.

Exceptions: There are some exceptions to the fasting rule for elderly/sick or too young people, pregnant, or women who have their period, and people who travel more than 80km that day. However, afterwards, the ‘’travellers’’ have to catch up with the skipped day/s and fast after Ramadan is finished. They have to make up for the missed days before next Ramadan or if for any reason they can’t they should compensate by feeding a needy person for every day missed.

Muslims break their fast at sunset. Then it’s time for Iftar when they start drinking their first glass of water, followed by eating some dates. The morning pre-fast meal is before sunrise and it’s called Suhur / Suhoor.


What to pack: Sunscreen, no matter when you visit, because the sun in North Africa is strong and burning even behind the clouds. Pack a scarf (to cover yourself if needed), and respectful clothing, despite Tunisia being a very modern and tolerant Islamic country. In fact, the country is A Women’s Rights Champion in the Maghreb Region. I had my ‘’Insta dresses’’ and all that, but I was wearing a scarf or a long cover-up all the time between taking pictures because I didn’t want all eyes on me and didn’t want to be discourteous. Believe me, if you are a girl travelling alone (or in company of another girl) it catches the attention and the guys will look no matter what. They are curious, interested and could be a bit annoying sometimes, but don’t worry most of the people are super kind. It felt totally safe, I didn’t feel in any danger, but I prefer to avoid as many attempts and comments as possible because it makes me feel uncomfortable. Don’t freak out though - this is just a reminder and a piece of advice, but in general, I think that Tunisia is great for solo travellers or girl trips. It will be very helpful if you speak French and/or (Tunisian) Arabic though, so pack your dictionary or download a Translator App.


ABCD: I often advise you to pack your dictionary, so I decided to start and sometimes include a new rubric in my blog posts. I named it ‘’ABCD’’, lol. Here, I will share some useful and commonly used phrases in the country you are going to. Locals are always happy to know that you’ve put some effort into learning a few words in their language. It’s a true ice-breaker.

Tunisian Arabic is a bit different from the Arabic, so here are some expressions you could use:

Hello! – Salam! or Nharek taieb!

Good morning! -Sbeh el kir!

Good evening! – Tesbah ala kihr!

Bye! (informal) – Besslema!

Goodbye! (formal) – Ila illika!

Yes – Aih

No – La

OK – Behi

Wishing good health (used after drinking/eating/shower) – Saha!

Thank you! – Chokran!

Excuse me, … - Smahni, …

I don’t speak any Tunisian. – Ma nahkich tounsi.

Numbers: 1 – wahed ; 2 – ethnin; 3 – thlatha; 4 – araba; 5 – kamsa; 6 – sitta; 7 – sabaa; 8 – thmania; 9 – tesaa; 10 – achra; 100 – mia; 1000 – alf; 1 000 000 - mlioun


!!! Photography: For professional gear like cameras and drones you need special permission to bring them in the country. Even if your drone is not professional, you still need a permit, which from what I read is very difficult to get if you don’t work for the country itself. For filming permits, you have to apply at least 2 weeks in advance with a copy of your passport, dates of travel, copy of a press card (if you have one) + equipment list. We had a 5-minutes ‘’interview’’ after arrival where we showed our gear and permits. If you have all the papers in advance, there is no issue.


Internet connection: We decided to buy a Tunisian SIM card with an internet data package, no calls included, but they gave us 15 minutes of call-time as a bonus. After a lot of research, we chose Telecom as they are supposed to have the best overall coverage. However, don’t count too much on that in the desert. For reference, for 25 GB, we paid 30 TND, or around 10 USD, which is more than enough for 10 days + the Wi-Fi in all hotels we’ve been to was great.


Dislikes:

1. I would strongly advise against taking pictures with captured wild animals and supporting this kind of ‘’business’’. For many of you, it might seem like a harmless way for locals to make some money, but it has a serious impact on animal welfare. They will try to ‘’seduce’’ you with one of the cutest creatures I’ve ever seen – the Fennec fox (a desert white fox with big years), but it broke my heart seeing it on a leash… Other animals used as photo props are mainly captured birds/eagles.

2. I would also skip going to the meat market because this was the second and last shocking part I had during my entire Tunisian experience. It really stays stamped in my mind no matter how much I want to erase the memories of hanging camel, cow and sheep heads in front of the butcher shops – sometimes there were also animals waiting to be killed and this is hard to swallow for me. This horrible picture is to be seen in the biggest part of Tunisia and I believe that it won’t be pleasant even for the meat lovers out there. I know it’s a cultural thing and I know that most of you also eat meat, therefore I cannot stop an entire population to eat meat, but I just don’t like the way it has to be ‘’presented and advertised’’. By the way, even if you don’t go to a specific meat market you will see that on the main streets, basically everywhere…


How to get around:

1. We had all our transfers organized beforehand. Many of the hotels offer an airport pick-up or drop-off. Additional charges may apply.

2. For the rest of our trip, we had a private driver and a guide, arranged by the Tunisian tourism board.

Usually, I love discovering countries by myself, but I highly recommend you book a driver and a guide in Tunisia. It’s really a great option and will make your entire journey flawless and super special. Thank you Hassen and Maned for the unforgettable journey.

3. If you want to experience Tunisia in a more authentic way, their public transport apparently is well-organized, frequent and cheap. Consider renting a car, grabbing a taxi or taking a domestic flight.

COVID-19: Covid-19 restrictions and entry requirements are continuously changing. Make sure to always check the official website of the country you go to.


 

DAY 1. & DAY 2.

My lovely friend Anna and I landed at Enfidha-Hammamet International Airport. This airport is a bit more than an hour drive to Tunis, and 1h 30 min to Four Seasons Tunis, which is nestled on the Mediterranean seashore. If you want to start your trip from Tunis, consider landing directly there. The reason we didn’t do so, is that we had very cheap direct flights from Geneva to Enfidha-Hammamet and booked the tickets without taking into consideration the rest of the plan. Oops!

However, everything worked perfectly fine and I wouldn’t mind doing it again, because we finished our trip in Hammamet and it would’ve been the same ‘’issue’’ on the way back.


 

WHERE TO STAY

TUNIS


We spent the first two days exploring and benefiting from the hotel facilities, because who would mind some time in one of the best hotel chains in the world?! Time for pampering with good food, great service, SPA treatments and a bestie. Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Four Seasons Tunis brought us to another world – a world of luxury twisted with fairytale 1001 nights vibes. The staff’s property made us feel like we are in the famous ‘’Sex and the City 2’’ movie – two friends having their best time in this glamorous, spacious ‘’kingdom’’. I won’t mention that we’ve got lost several times before we got used to the place because it’s giant.


My lovely friend Anna proposed me to be her bridesmaid here and of course, I said ''YES''. I am honored and happy to be part of this big day. Can't wait.


We were really impressed by the outstanding service and astonishing design, the little daily surprises and messages awaiting us in the room, the quality meals and afternoon tea, the indoor and outdoor pools and the extraordinary SPA treatments. Try the hammam and their iconic massages.



The restaurants of Four Seasons Tunis met all our dietary requirements. Both Anna and I are plant-based, and this is not always easy when travelling, but we found some amazing choices at the CREEK, AZUR and Salon Alyssa. We didn’t have the chance to try BLU restaurant, but there is one more reason to come back. Being part of the FS Tunis Iftar experience (the first Ramadan meal after sunset) was incredible. Special thank you to the chefs for the great dishes and the entire staff for the unforgettable stay. Thank you also for the organized day trip to Sidi Bou Said, Carthage and the Medina of Tunis.

Four Seasons Tunis satisfied all our senses and was the perfect start to an amazing girl’s trip.


Instagram: @fstunis



 

DAY 3.

SIDI BOU SAID - CARTHAGE - TUNIS


SIDI BOU SAID

The first stop of the day is Sidi Bou Said, a small charming town located about 20 km from Tunis. Perched on a cliff 120 m above sea level, every corner of this idyllic seaside town is picture-perfect. Stroll the cobbled car-free streets snuggled between whitewashed buildings and sky-blue painted windows and doors and keep your camera ready.


Everywhere in Sidi Bou Said you will see the national Tunisian colours – white and blue. White stays for purity and blue for the sky and the Mediterranean.



For best views go to Café des délices. Wander the alfresco cafes, and the numerous art galleries, enjoy the beautiful bougainvillaeas and orange trees and pay a visit to the home of Baron Rodolphe d’Erlanger – a Swiss baron who fell in love with the Arabic culture and built this palace overlooking the Mediterranean. The neo-Moorish architecture of his home is featuring an arched doorway, marble and granite columns, an extraordinary artisan wood carving, mosaic tiling and plasterwork. A true piece of art.


 

CARTHAGE


Once being the capital of the ancient Carthaginian civilization, today, Carthage is a coastal residential suburb of Tunis, located on the eastern side of the Lake of Tunis. Thanks to the great geo-location this ancient Phoenician city became the most powerful and richest city in the entire Mediterranean region. This changed when ancient Rome and Carthage started to have a conflict of interests, which erupted in 3 Punic Wars fought over for 100 years.


Nowadays, most visitors go to discover Carthage’s relatively well maintained ancient archaeological reserve which is added to the UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1979.


Points of interest: The acropolis of Byrsa, the Punic ports, the Punic Tophet, the amphitheatre, necropolises, theatre, circus, basilicas, residential area, Malaga cisterns.


 

TUNIS

Tunis is the capital and the largest city of Tunisia and hosts about 2,5 million of the 12 million population of the country. It is located in north-eastern Tunisia on the Lake of Tunis, between the western and eastern basins of the Mediterranean Sea.

Major sources of income here are agriculture – mainly olives and cereals, textiles, carpets and building structures (metal and cement).


Roam the lovely twisting streets of Tunis Medina and dive into the lively spirit of the souks. Sellers offering silver, gold, spices, carpets and so on will try to convince you to enter their shop and make business with you. There are some hidden gems on the rooftops of these shops, but it’s best if you have an insider guide who will be able to bring you there.


From those secret rooftops, magical views over the Medina are opening. Admire the Al-Zaytuna Mosque through mosaic arches and be ready to be teleported into another reality while watching the souks from above.

During your strolling and getting lost in the Medina don’t forget to look around and meet the Fatimid and Ottoman architecture. You will also find mosques, madrassas (Islamic schools of learning), and mausoleums.


More points of interest: Ville Nouvelle (New Town), La Goulette (Tunis Port), Mosque of Sidi Mahrez.


 

DAY 4.

TUNIS – DOUGGA – KAIROUAN – TOZEUR


The north of Tunisia is the richest agricultural part of the country as it receives more rain than other places. There Tunisians cultivate wheat, vegetables, fruits, vineyards. By the way, you will find many wild orange trees, but keep in mind that they are bitter and therefore not eatable.


 


TUNIS – DOUGGA – 112 km, 2 hr drive


DOUGGA

On a hill on the northwest side of Tunisia, there is another greatly preserved Africo-Roman archaeological site whose ruins testify to more than 17 centuries of history. In 1997 this archaeological site of Dougga/ Thugga was qualified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered ‘’the best-preserved Roman small town in North Africa’’.


Covering approximately 65 hectares of space with ruins of a Romanised Numidian town it illustrates the synthesis of the Numidian, Punic, Hellenistic, and Roman cultures. In the past, it was the capital of an important Libyco-Punic state, which flourished under Roman rule and declined during the Byzantine and Islamic periods.


There you will find the Capitol, the Roman theatre, the Libyco-Punic Mausoleum, and the temples of Saturn and of Juno Caelestis.


 


DOUGGA – KAIROUAN – 148 km, 2 hr 20 min drive


KAIROUAN

Tunisia is home to one of the 4 holy cities for Muslims. If you are wondering which those cities are – they are Mekka (where according to the Quran every Muslim has to go at least once in a lifetime), Medina, Jerusalem (holy city for Christians, Muslims and Jews) and Kairouan.


Kairouan is a UNESCO World Heritage town, hosting one of the most spectacular and largest Islamic monuments in North Africa – The Great Mosque of Kairouan, which was established by the Arab general Uqba Ibn Nafi at the founding of the city of Kairouan. In his honour, the mosque is often referred to and also known as the Mosque of Uqba.


The significant importance of the covering an area of over 9,000 m2 Great Mosque of Kairouan is thanks to the fact that it was the first mosque in the first Muslim town in the West. This hypostyle mosque was built in stages between 836 and 866.


IMPORTANT: Dress appropriately before entering the mosque – cover your legs and shoulders. Ladies, keep in mind to take a scarf to cover your hair. If you don’t have a scarf, they will give you one, but it will be great to be prepared in advance.


Now after finishing the visit of this impressive religious monument, it’s time to stroll down the streets of the town. While I am looking for my flying carpet in Kairouan, let me tell you a bit more about their famous rugs. The ‘Kairouan’ carpets are eponymous and inherited the name of the city where they were originally produced. These oriental carpets were at the crossroad of various civilizations and are anchored in the traditions of the country.

Typical for a Kairouan carpet is the large medallion in the middle, surrounded by a flower pattern and a frame of parallel stripes. The classic pattern includes a bright red main feature and others with white and brown natural sheep wool colours. However, nowadays you can find some carpet varieties and touches characterized by regional artistic influences.


 


KAIROUAN – TOZEUR – 295 km, 4 hr 20 min drive

Be ready for a long way from Kairouan to Tozeur, especially if the weather is not on your side. The climate quickly changed and we got caught up in a crazy Saharan sandstorm. The sand was hitting the windshield of the car and it was scary because it was impossible to see more than 2-metres ahead. Luckily, we did it and we safely arrived in Tozeur.


 

WHERE TO STAYDAY 4, 5 & 6

DAR TOZEUR


Dar Tozeur has 3 open courtyards in between the property including 2 beautiful swimming pools and a small garden with olive trees, date palms, oranges and different flowers. A true slice of heaven in the heart of, but at the same time hidden from the bustling life of the old town. Dar Tozeur is this heavenly little “oasis in the oasis” where you can simply unwind, have a dip in one of their pools, rest in one of the 8 spacious, cosy suites, or simply enjoy the shades of their exotic courtyards.


Instagram: @dartozeur

Book here: Dar Tozeur



By the way, I know that for those of you who might have been to Morocco it’s interesting to know what the difference between a Dar and a Riad is - they are both typical houses found in the Medinas and they are actually very similar. Both have a private open or closed space between the home chambers. This space could include a garden, fountain, pool etc.

The courtyard is protected from sandstorms by the walls and regulates the temperature levels - it never gets too hot or too cold. Translated, “dar” means house and “riad” means garden. Usually, the riads are supposed to have an interior garden and the dars should have an inner courtyard. Note, that in general in Tunisia they call these houses dars and in Morocco - riads. Don’t overthink it, but book your stay in one of those traditional accommodations and enjoy a unique and more personal treatment.


 

DAY 5.

CHOTT EL DJERID - TOZEUR - ONG EL JEMEL


Here I won’t be putting the distances, because everything is fairly close and located in the same area. Important is to have a 4x4 vehicle and you are ready to go.


As I’ve mentioned above, Tunisia is one of the first date producers in the world. A great idea to add more dates to your diet and note that they have Deglet Noor Dates, which according to our guide are the best quality dates and are very soft and sweet.


Except for palm groves in the oases, in the sand desert, the inhabitants are some

animals like snakes (vipers), scorpions, hyenas, gazelles, fennec fox, houbara bustard which is on the red list.


 

CHOTT EL DJERID

Chott el Djerid is the largest salt lake area in the Sahara desert. This minerals rich dry lake is located in southern Tunisia and depending on the source it covers a surface area between 5,000 and 7,000km2. If you were wondering where you can experience a mirage or how they occur, this is the place. The salt white glittering surface creates this illusion of a mirage (Fata Morgana).


By the way, millions of years ago those Sahara lands were covered by seas, but when the mountains unfolded, most of the water flowed to the Mediterranean Sea, and only in hollows on the surface with no bilge to the sea remained water.


In Northern Africa ‘’chott’’ describes a lake that dries out in summer and usually has some water in the colder months, and the Arabic word djerid means ‘’palm leaf’’. Some translate the name as ‘’Lagoon of the Land of Palms’’. In springtime, if you are lucky enough, you can spot some flamingos using the shores of the lake as nesting sites.


However, on the lands where the lake spreads, there is almost no life and it is indeed, not a great place to live, because of the harsh climate conditions, but once stepped into the nearby oases of Tozeur and Nefta, you can get all the necessary supplies to enjoy the journey and the teleportation to an entirely new world.


In contrary to the sharp living conditions, this area is a visitors paradise, a place to fuel the senses. It opens new horizons and thanks to its hold of minerals, at some points it paints pinkish and blue landscapes. While driving on the straight road which is passing through Chott el Djerid you will witness their table salt mines. It’s incredible to know that in this area there are also up to a meter high sand roses created by the crystallization of dissolved gypsum. Mother Nature never stops surprising me and apparently, she did the same with the Star Wars producers because they also fell in love with those sceneries and used them as a beloved film set location.


 

TOZEUR

Tozeur is a Saharan oasis town surrounded by numerous chott (salty lakes) and palm groves. People call it the gate of the desert. The oasis was settled in Roman times before it was conquested by Berber tribes called Amazigh. Iconic for the traditional architecture in the region are the yellow brick building facades.


Stroll down the streets of the beautiful Tozeur Medina and its souks offering two varieties of high-quality dates, many types of fresh fruits and vegetables, rugs and silver.



Points of interest in town: Sidi Abid Mosque, the Great Mosque (built in 1030); the marabout tomb of Sidi Ali Abu Lifah (built in 1282).


 

ADVENTURE ON: QUAD RIDE TO ONG EL JEMEL - STAR WARS DESERT SET (NEFTA)


A great way to continue the day is to rent a quad and ride it through the Saharan sand dunes, passing by Ong el Jemel and finishing at one of the famous Star Wars locations (Nefta).


What a day of quad adventures and facing a Sahara sandstorm on top of Ong el Jemel it was. Ong el Jemel means ‘’the neck of the camel’’ named after the camel shape of this large rock formation. You can climb it and enjoy these awe-inspiring canyon views. We were literally and figuratively blown away by this epic landscape.


Continue, the quad expedition a bit further to get to the real deal – reach the bigger sand dunes and the Star Wars desert set location (Nefta). Prepare to be followed by people/vendors dressed in Star Wars outfits and wearing Star Wars masks (very useful for the prevention of eating sand though). We arrived there about an hour before the sunset usually sets down and the sandstorm was incredibly strong, but we made the disadvantage advantage and created some cool and savage video content. I am repeating myself, but the taste of sand wasn’t my favourite, nor my new nest-inspired hairstyle, but it was all worth it plus the sunset at the end was so special – like watching it from another planet. We’ve got all the Star Wars vibes.



Both our guide and driver were waiting for us at the Star Wars movie set, so we went back by car. What happened on the way was completely breathtaking – we saw countless ‘’wild camels’’ crossing the road. Passing from Swiss cows to meeting some of the 56’000 Tunisian camels in the Sahara Desert was an incredible experience. By the way, 96% of the camels in Tunisia are located in the south. In Africa, all camels have only one hump and are called dromedary. Nicknamed, ‘’Sahara boat’’, because of their resistance, camels are seen as a symbol of passion as they can resist without eating and drinking for 2 months. This is possible because the body feeds itself from the hump which is full of fat.


Now let’s go back to one of our highlights of the day. These cuties just crossed the road and we couldn’t believe how lucky we were to witness this - they looked so wild and free finding their way alone. However, it turned out that all camels here belong to someone and are reared in the vast rangelands. They know their way home without someone guiding them because camels never forget. Aren’t they smart?!


Needless to say, we jumped out of the car to admire this occurrence and to film them. I

only succeeded to get some videos but will share a screenshot here.


 

DAY 6.

CHEBIKA OASIS - TAMERZA - CANYON DE MIDES


TOZEUR - CHEBIKA - 54 km, 45 min drive


CHEBIKA OASIS

This is what I visualize when I close my eyes and think of what a desert oasis looks like… Add some palm trees, a source of water and those magical desert colours variegated with some greeneries and blues. This picturesque waterfall is located at the bottom of an old Berber village and it feels like the Garden of Eden. In the past, before becoming a Berber village, Chebika was a Roman outpost and today it has a population of a few hundred people. It won’t be surprising to tell you that this magical place also served and was used for some scenes of ‘’Star Wars IV: A New Hope’’ and ‘’The English Patient’’.


Once reached the dreamy waterfall, continue to hike towards the peak. From there you will see the oasis from above with all the beautiful palm groves, a lovely view of the mountain and Chott el Djerid.


 

CHEBIKA – TAMERZA – 16km, 15 min drive

TAMERZA

This is the largest mountain oasis in Tunisia, located close to the Algerian border. A canyon, waterfalls and an abandoned old town are awaiting you there. However, we didn’t visit the best places to be seen and we stopped at a waterfall, not far from our next location (see the map at the end of my blog post). This is why Chebika oasis still owns a bigger part of my heart.


 

TAMERZA – CANYON DE MIDES – 10km, 10 min drive


CANYON DE MIDES

A place which you shouldn’t skip. Canyon de Mides is the Tunisian ‘’Far West’’ located near the Tunisian-Algerian border - about 75 km from Tozeur. The old village of Mides was abandoned in 1969 as it suffered severe floods that killed more than 400 people. The ruins still hang above the void and you will walk through them before reaching the most amazing picturesque spots.


This mineral-rich mountain oasis opens spectacular views over the wadi (valley) which is snuggled between the rocky walls of this stunning canyon. Its magnificent gorge stretches for 3 km while drawing extraterrestrial shapes and painting with contrasting colours. There one can observe fossils and coloured minerals, millions of years old. Feeling on the top of the world while sharing this echoing space with the sound and flight of the birds… having this all to ourselves was a dream come true and experiencing its colours at sunset made it even more unique.

P.S. Some of the scenes of the film “The English Patient” were taken here.


 

DAY 7.

SIDI BOUHLEL CANYON - ANANTARA SAHARA TOZEUR RESORT & VILLAS


TOZEUR - SIDI BOUHLEL - 25 km, 30 min drive





SIDI BOUHLEL CANYON

Sidi Bouhlel Canyon is in very close proximity to the town of Tozeur in Southern Tunisia. It served as a backdrop for many movie scenes like the famous “Star Wars: A New Hope” (being the desert planet on Tatooine). The canyon was also a film location for “Indiana Jones Raiders of the Lost Ark” and “The English Patient”.









 



WHERE TO STAY

ANANTARA SAHARA TOZEUR RESORTS & VILLAS


Let’s continue with the Sahara vibes and sprinkle some glam into this incomparable sense of space. Find your dreamy desert escapes and luxury Arabian nights at the Anantara Sahara Tozeur Resorts & Villas.

The sandstorms didn’t stop us enjoy this once in a lifetime getaway full of adventures, jaw-dropping sceneries and majestic moments like this stay at one of the best hotels in Tunisia.

We experienced the sunset poolside bliss of their amazing Royal Villa followed by an extraordinary dining experience prepared and delivered specially for us.

When you get tired of the unforgettable desert venture, Anantara Tozeur has 93 suites and villas ready to pamper you. It looks like a mirage, but it’s a true oasis for all human senses. Big thank you to the entire team for the unforgettable moments!


Instagram: @anantaratozeur



 

DAY 8.

MATMATA - TOUJANE - CHENINI - DOIRET - KSAR OULED DEBBAB - DJERBA


We left Anantara Sahara Tozeur Resort & Villas and continued our road trip with a final stop for the day – Djerba. Before that, we had some other stunning places to visit though. Prepare for a long day on the road.


 

TOZEUR – MATMATA – 220 km, 3 hr drive

UNDERGROUND TRYGLODYTE IN MATMATA

Initially planned was to go to Douz first, which is around a 2-hours drive from Tozeur and is known as the ‘’getaway to the Sahara’’. We skipped that part because we wanted to spend more time at the next destinations, the first of which in the plan was Matmata.

This small Berber speaking town in southern Tunisia is famous for its traditional underground tryglodyte/cave structures, created by digging a large pit in the sandstone. Those structures provide protection against the summer heat and the strong winds during the rest of the year.


Since the last major flooding in Matmata, many of the Berbers left their homes. Those who remained are doing a living by working their olive farms and accepting tips from tourists who would love to visit their homes which we also did. We visited a typical trygloryde home and we’ve got treated very well with some homemade bread, olive oil and honey.


Did you know that Luke Skywalker’s birthplace and family home is one of those typical homes? Today his house is a hotel – Hotel Sidi Driss. There is a small entrance fee to get inside. Totally go for it if you are a Star Wars fan, but I preferred 1000 times more the authentic experience of visiting a local home.




 

MATMATA- TOUJANE – 40 km, 51 min drive

TOUJANE

Toujane is a mountain Berber village, divided into two parts by a valley. Stone houses few of which are whitewashed are perched on a rock overlooking the sea. We stopped for a panoramic shot on the way to Chenini, but unfortunately didn’t have time to roam around.


 

TOUJANE – CHENINI – 109 km, around 2 hr drive


CHENINI VILLAGE

Chenini holds the ruins of an old Berber village and is an absolute must-visit place. Go to this open-air ‘’museum’’ located on a hilltop, where you can dive into the old times and feel how the people have lived for centuries. In the past, this fortified village (ksar) was used as a granary. Chenini and Tatouine districts served as a big inspiration for George Lucas and his space opera. Of course, they were also filmed in Star Wars.






 

CHENINI – DOUIRET – 27km, 27 min drive





DOUIRET TATOUINE

Doiret same as Chenini is nestled on a hilltop and below this ruined Berber village, there is a modern village carrying the same name. Served as a fortified granary, nowadays the traditional charm of this mesmerizing town leaves the tourists speechless. Camera-ready! Go!







 

DOUIRET – KSAR OULED DEBBAB – 12 km, 14 min drive





KSAR OULED DEBBAB

Planned was to visit Ksar Hadada first, but unfortunately, it was under construction, so we had to skip this stop and continue to Ksar Ouled Debbab. This ksar was built by Berbers to repel the attacks of the Bedouin tribes. Today, it is an operating hotel. If you are wondering what ksar means – it means a ‘’castle’’ or ‘’fortified village’’.






 

KSAR OULED DEBBAB – DJERBA – 136 km, 2 hr drive

DJERBA OVERNIGHT

Djerba is an island connected to the mainland by a Roman bridge. You can reach it by air, water and land. We went there crossing the famous bridge but left it by ferry.


 

WHERE TO STAY

HASDRUBAL PRESTIGE THALASSA & SPA DJERBA


This lovely SPA hotel is located on the seafront and offers a private beach, several swimming pools, in total 9 restaurants and bars and a great service. My favourite part are the rooms overlooking the Mediterranean. Mornings start better with an amazing sea view and all this could happen from the comfort of your balcony.



 

DAY 9.

DJERBA - EL JEM - HAMMAMET


DJERBA

Djerba seemed to be an amazing island which deserves at least two full days of discovery, or even more because it covers an area of 514km2 and you might also want to spend a few beach days there. Well, here comes the biggest mistake of our trip planning as we didn’t consider the distance we had to cross that day and stupidly enough we thought we might spend a bit longer time in Djerba. This influenced by Berber, Arab, Jewish and African cultures island, will seduce you with its wonderful beaches and whitewashed towns.


We couldn’t truly experience the core of Djerba, but we’ve built a vague idea and I have to say that this is a place to go back to for more.


Before leaving the island, we saw many flamingos colouring the waters and enjoying their daily ‘’splash-splash’’ routine. We were running towards them before we started ‘’sinking’’ into the mud… but this is typical me when I get excited.


After the short flamingo encounter, we continued to catch a 15 minutes long car ferry which brought us back to Tunisia mainland (Jorf), from where we continued to our only visit of the day – El Jem Amphitheater.



 

JORF – EL JEM – 305 km, 3 hr 20 min drive


EL JEM AMPHITHEATER

Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, El Jem is the third-largest amphitheater of the Roman world after the Colosseum of Rome and the Roman Amphitheater of Capua, holding a capacity of 35,000 spectators.

As we already know – Tunisia is a beloved film-makers destination, therefore this arena was also a backdrop in numerous movies like ‘’Gladiator’’ and ‘’Monty Python’s Life of Brian’’.

Nowadays, the arena is used for concerts, such as an annual jazz festival.

Entrance fee: 10 TND






 

EL JEM – HAMMAMET – 154 km, 1 hr 42 min

HAMMAMET OVERNIGHT


WHERE TO STAY

HASDRUBAL THALASSA & SPA YASMINE HAMMAMET


Once we arrived at the Hasdrubal Thalassa & SPA Yasmine Hammamet, we were treated so well. We’ve both received flowers including the usual welcome drinks. After we were brought to our suite which was enormous – with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living room and 3 balconies all overlooking the Mediterranean.

Hasdrubal Hammamet have also a lovely pool area and a private beach where we went to get our daily dose of vitamin D.

Don’t forget to book any of their SPA treatments, because they were so good. I felt like a newborn afterwards. The one I would recommend is the one we’ve tried. Keep in mind that this is an entire ritual and lasts around 4 hours. It’s called ‘’1001 nights’’. The ritual could be for HER and/or for HIM and consists of a hammam, exfoliation, 60 minutes body massage, face massage and a hair blowout for ‘’her’’/barber services for ‘’him’’.


Instagram: @hasdrubalhammamet


 

DAY 10.

HAMMAMET

As much as I love the desert, it was a great choice to finish by the sea. Hammamet is one of the main tourist destinations in Tunisia and many people come only for its beaches/water sports, and forget to discover the rest of the island which is a huge mistake.


Hammamet is really nice, but what I loved about Tunisia is the authenticity and the almost untouched beauty of the rest of the country. However, combining the two is the goal, a complete win-win situation.


Departure from Enfidha-Hammamet International Airport.


 

Tunisia is the perfect getaway for young and old, for friends, couples and solo travellers, for people who just want to rest and people like us who want to discover and experience everything. From luxury to fighting sandstorms, from outer-worldly desert landscapes to exotic beaches, I couldn’t have imagined a better place and a better company to cover and satisfy all my expectations from a trip. Not just a trip, it felt like an exciting expedition coming straight out from one of their movie-set locations. We lived in our own ‘’movie’’, parts of which we captured and others kept for ourselves. This movie is our private blockbuster and the only place to watch the entire film is in our memories.


This is not a goodbye, but a see you soon, Tunisia!






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