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  • Writer's pictureIzabel Philippa

Chile Chronicles: Itinerary, Survival Guide and Atacama Adventures


Road trip in Atacama Desert
Atacama Desert

Chile, this long and skinny country known for its diverse landscapes, rich culture, and vibrant cities, is a hidden gem in South America. As one of the wealthiest nations on the continent, Chile boasts a blend of modernity and tradition that left us speechless.

 

From the progressive capital Santiago to the authentic port city and UNESCO World Heritage Centre Valparaiso, you can choose from wine-tasting tours and breathtaking Patagonia expeditions. Go to one of the 43,471 islands or head for some desert adventures in the world's driest desert – Atacama.


Unfortunately, ten days wasn’t enough to explore all of Chile, but what we saw was so worth it and definitely gave us the desire to go back and discover the rest of the country.


Below, I will share some general information and our day-by-day itinerary, including valuable tips and information for your future visit to this extraordinary country.


 

GENERAL INFORMATION

Chile, a land of rich history and diverse cultures, traces its roots back to the indigenous people who inhabited the region for thousands of years before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. In 1818, Chile declared its independence from Spain, marking the beginning of a new era of sovereignty and nation-building.


Location: Chile is in South America, bordered by Peru to the north, Bolivia to the northeast, Argentina to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south. The country also shares a maritime border with Antarctica to the south. Chile's diverse geographical features, from the Atacama Desert in the north to the Andes Mountains in the east, make it a unique and captivating destination for travellers.


Etymology: The country's name, "Chile," is believed to have originated from the indigenous Mapuche word "chilli," which means "where the land ends."


Symbol: The national flag of Chile is one of the most prominent symbols of the country. It consists of two horizontal bands of white and red, with a blue square and a white five-pointed star in the upper left corner. The flag represents Chile's independence and sovereignty, with the white symbolizing the snow-covered Andes Mountains, the blue represents the sky, and the red signifies the blood shed by those who fought for Chile's freedom. The national flag is a proud emblem that symbolizes the Chilean people's unity, history, and identity.


Size: Chile is a long and narrow country, stretching approximately 4,300 km (2,670 mi) from north to south and varying in width from about 177 km (110 mi) to 356 km (221 mi) on average.

With a total land area of around 756,102 km² (291,933 mi²), Chile is the eighth largest country in South America. Despite its slender shape, Chile's diverse landscapes encompass deserts, mountains, forests, and coastline, offering a wealth of natural beauty to explore.


Capital: Santiago - the capital and largest city of Chile. Situated in the country's central valley, Santiago serves as Chile's political, cultural, and economic hub. With a population of around 7 million in the metropolitan area, Santiago is a bustling metropolis known for its modern infrastructure, historic landmarks, and vibrant cultural scene. As the heart of Chile, Santiago offers a blend of traditional charm and contemporary living that captivates visitors from around the world.


Population: As of the latest estimates, Chile has a population of approximately 19,6 million (2022). The population is diverse, comprising a mix of indigenous groups, European descendants, and immigrants from various countries. The majority of the population resides in urban areas, with Santiago being the most populous city. Chile's population has been steadily growing, driven by natural increase and immigration. 


Languages: The official language of Chile is Spanish, which is spoken by most of the population. Spanish in Chile has its own distinctive accent and vocabulary, known as "Chilean Spanish." In addition to Spanish, there are also indigenous languages spoken by minority groups, such as Mapudungun, Quechua, and Aymara.


Currency: Chilean Peso, denoted by the symbol "$" and the currency code "CLP." For reference: 1 CLP = 0,00098 EUR; 1 CLP = 0,0011 USD


Economy: Chile has a mixed economy that is characterized by a robust market-oriented approach and openness to international trade. The country is known for its stable economic policies, low levels of corruption, and solid institutional framework. Chile's economy is diversified, with key sectors including mining, agriculture, forestry, fishing, and tourism. The country is a leading producer of copper and has a reputation for innovation and entrepreneurship. Despite challenges such as income inequality and fluctuations in global commodity prices, Chile has shown resilience and has been recognized for its economic stability and growth.



Best time to visit: The best time to visit Chile depends on the specific regions and activities you plan to explore. In general, the most popular time to visit Chile is during the austral summer months of December to February, when the weather is warm and ideal for outdoor adventures. This is a great time to explore destinations such as Santiago, the Atacama Desert, the Lake District, and Patagonia.


If you're interested in skiing or snow sports, the winter months of June to August are ideal for visiting the ski resorts in the Andes mountains. The shoulder seasons of spring (September to November) and fall (March to May) can also be great times to visit, with milder weather and fewer crowds. 


Keep in mind that Chile's diverse geography means that weather conditions can vary significantly between regions, so it's essential to consider the specific activities and destinations you have in mind when planning your visit.

 

What to pack:

When packing for a trip to Chile, it's important to consider the diverse landscapes and varying weather conditions you may encounter. Here are some essential items to pack:

  • Clothing: Pack layers to accommodate Chile's diverse climate. Light clothing for warmer regions, a waterproof jacket for rainy days, and warm layers for cooler temperatures in the mountains or Patagonia.

  • Comfortable shoes: Bring sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots for exploring Chile's natural landscapes, such as the Atacama Desert or Torres del Paine National Park.

  • Sun protection: Don't forget sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to protect yourself from the strong sun, especially in the desert regions. I had the most insane sunburn of my life, so double apply your sun protection and thank me later.

  • Travel adapter: Chile uses type C and type L sockets, so make sure to bring a suitable adapter for your electronic devices.

  • Reusable water bottle: Stay hydrated and reduce waste by bringing a reusable water bottle that you can refill throughout your trip.

  • Camera: Capture the stunning landscapes and vibrant culture of Chile with a camera or smartphone for photos and videos.

  • Travel documents: Remember to pack your passport, travel insurance, itinerary, and any necessary visas for your trip to Chile.

  • Spanish phrasebook: While many Chileans speak some English, having a basic understanding of Spanish can enhance your travel experience.


Remember to pack according to the specific activities and regions you plan to visit in Chile and consider any special gear or equipment you may need for hiking, skiing, or other adventures.

 

Drones: Before flying, drones weighing over 250 grams must be registered with the Civil Aviation Authority (DGAC) in Chile. The maximum altitude for drone flights in Chile is 120 meters (approximately 400 feet) above ground level.


Stay connected: We purchased an eSIM card online. Once you complete the order, you will receive all the activation steps, and voila, you are ready to go in no time. Don’t forget to make sure your phone is eSIM compatible. However, if your phone is incompatible with this option or you prefer a physical SIM card, Movistar is known to have the best mobile coverage and great prepaid SIM cards for travellers.

 

Requirements for entering Chile: You can visit Chile’s official website and check the current requirements here


 

HOW TO GET AROUND

Atacama Desert Road Trip
Atacama Desert Road Trip

Santiago has a great public transportation system - we used the subway and Uber during our time in the capital. 


To get from Santiago to Valparaiso, we took a bus that departs several times per day. You can take the bus for a few hours and then return whenever you wish.


However, we rented a vehicle in the Atacama Desert, which is the best decision because you could easily explore various locations without depending on tour schedules/timings. My only tip is to make sure to choose a high car. We rented a Jeep, but a 4x4 is not necessary, and we didn’t have it. Please note that driving in Chile is on the right-hand side of the road.

 


 

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY

DAY 1.


SANTIAGO

After an almost 16-hour connecting flight from Geneva to Madrid and Madrid to Santiago - we landed at Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport (SCL), took an Uber and went straight to the hotel to get a room service and call it a night.



SCL – W SANTIAGO – approx. 23 km (14,3 mi)


WHERE TO STAY

W SANTIAGO

Located in the beautiful financial district of Santiago Las Condes, the W Santiago is a luxurious hotel that offers a unique and unforgettable experience. During our stay, we had the opportunity to enjoy the spacious "Wow Suite," which had terrific views that genuinely made us say "Wow." The suite's highlight was the bathtub positioned in front of the window in the bedroom, allowing us to relax and soak in the city's breathtaking scenery.


We loved having one of the breakfasts in the room – we brought the breakfast to the bathtub because why not? The hotel's rooftop bar was another highlight, offering stunning views over the city and the tallest building in South America – Gran Torre Santiago. Plus, the music, cocktails, and events made it the perfect spot to chill and have a good time.


Now, let's talk about the dinner at Karai by Mitsuharu. The food was out of this world! It was hands down the best meal we had during our trip. They had several plant-based options for me, but the menu offered a great selection of sushi, sashimi, nigiri, ceviche, tiradito, etc. Every bite was a flavour explosion, and we left with happy, satisfied bellies.


Instagram: @wsantiago




 

 

DAY 2.


SANTIAGO

Our journey began in the bustling capital of Chile. Santiago, a modern and well-organized city, perfectly blends historic charm and contemporary architecture. From the iconic Cerro San Cristóbal to the bustling markets of La Vega Central, Santiago offers many attractions for visitors to explore.


Other points of interest: Santa Lucia Hill; Sky Costanera; Metropolitan Cathedral; Plaza de Armas;  Bicentenario Park; Museum of Memory and Human Rights; Barrio Bellavista neighborhood; Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art;  La Moneda Palace; Central Market.


SANTIAGO – VALPARAISO – approx. 140 km (87 mi)


VALPARAISO – once known as ‘’The Jewel of South America’’


We boarded a FlixBus from Santiago, an hour and a half scenic journey, to indulge in a few hours roaming the once paved in gold streets of this bohemian, vibing town turned into an artist’s sketchbook. Our return to Santiago was aboard a Turbus.


Bus from Santiago: To get to the bus terminal in Santiago take metro line 1 – the red line, direction San Pablo and go out at ‘’Pajaritos’’, where just outside is situated the bus station. From there you could purchase a ticket to Valparaiso from several bus companies, such as FlixBus, Turbus and Pullman. They are all quite similar in price and comfort. One-way ticket costs between 5000 – 7000 pesos.




Frequency: You can hop on a bus at your convenience, as they run every 20 minutes from 7 AM to 10 PM.


Once at the bus terminal in Valparaiso: You can expect a good 25-minute walk to the city centre. We took another bus, which was an interesting experience, and I recommend it. Take bus 505 and get off at Plaza Sotomayor. A one-way ticket costs 200 – 400 pesos.


Venturing out to Valparaiso, we were enchanted by the city's vibrant and authentic atmosphere. Known for its colourful murals and UNESCO World Heritage status, Valparaiso is a true gem and a place where you can get lost in the beauty of street art-kissed alleys. Riding in small buses with open doors and blaring music, we experienced the city's unique charm firsthand. 


This charming port city is famous for its steep funiculars and colourful cliff-top houses. One of the city's notable attractions is La Sebastiana, the whimsical former home of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, which now serves as a museum offering panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. In the 19th century, European immigrants made their mark on Valparaíso's architecture and cultural scene, with many significant landmarks clustered around Plaza Sotomayor in the downtown area.


Fortunately, we had the opportunity to visit Valparaíso just few days before the devastating fires that occurred in the city. We feel grateful that we were able to explore this picturesque town without the looming threat, and our hearts go out to the residents and communities affected by the tragic events. Valparaíso holds a special place in our memories, and we send our thoughts and support to the lovely town and its people.


Back to Santiago and time to explore, enjoy the pool and have great dining experience followed by a cocktail night on the rooftop of our hotel W Santiago.


 

DAY 3.


SCL – CPO – approx. 810 km (503 mi) / flight duration 1 hr 15



W Santiago

Our third day in Chile began with a luxurious breakfast in the bathtub at W Santiago, offering breathtaking city views. Our departure to the airport marked the start of our flight to Copiapo, deviating from the usual route to Calama to explore beyond the popular spots of the Atacama Desert.

ALTITUDE SICKNESS TIPS

We had no problems with altitude sickness even at the highest altitudes we visited in Atacama Desert, such as Geysers del Tatio – 4,300 m (14,107 feet) above sea level. However, I know from friends that it could be quite an unpleasant experience, and this is why I decided to share some information on how to avoid altitude sickness when visiting high-altitude destinations like the Atacama Desert:


  • Gradual Acclimatization: Allow your body time to adjust to the high altitude by ascending slowly. Avoid rapid altitude gain and take it easy during the first few days.

  • Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated at high altitudes. Dehydration can worsen altitude sickness symptoms.

  • Avoid Alcohol and Caffeine: Limit alcohol and caffeine consumption as they can contribute to dehydration and exacerbate altitude sickness.

  • Proper Nutrition: Eat light, high-carbohydrate meals and snacks to maintain energy levels and aid in acclimatization.

  • Medication: Consult with a healthcare provider about medications like acetazolamide (Diamox) to prevent or treat altitude sickness symptoms.

  • Rest and Relax: Allow yourself time to rest and acclimate to the altitude. Avoid strenuous physical activity until you feel comfortable.

Following these tips and listening to your body can reduce the risk of altitude sickness and enjoy your high-altitude adventures safely.


COPIAPO

Copiapo, with its unique character and history, provided a different perspective on Chilean culture. After a night at an Ibis hotel in Copiapo, we rose at 4 AM for an early trip to Salar de Pedernales.


TIP - learning from our mistakes: For a smoother journey, consider booking a night in El Salvador instead of staying in Copiapo. This lesser-known town provides a more convenient base for your adventures. Remember to stock up on essentials like water, snacks, and sandwiches from a supermarket, ensuring you're prepared for the unexpected twists and turns that could surprise you at Salar de Pedernales. At least, this is what happened to us. The anticipation builds for the exciting tales that lie ahead on this off-the-beaten-path exploration!


Before going any further... For those planning a visit to the Atacama Desert, I prepared a list of some fantastic stops you might want to add to your itinerary:

  • Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon)

  • Salar de Atacama

  • El Tatio Geysers

  • Laguna Cejar

  • Laguna Baltinache

  • Piedras Rojas (Red Stones)

  • Lagunas Altiplánicas

  • Magic Bus

  • Puritama Hot Springs

  • Valle del Arcoiris (Rainbow Valley)

  • Petróglifos de Yerbas Buenas

  • Lascar Volcano

  • Valle de los Cactus (Cactus Valley)

  • Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley)

  • ALMA Observatory

  • Mano del Desierto (Hand of the Desert)

  • Salar de Pedernales

  • Chaxa Lagoon

 

 

DAY 4.


COPIAPO – SALAR DE PEDERNALES – approx. 231 km (144 mi)


Salar de Pedernales is located at an altitude of approximately 2,200 m (7,218 feet) above sea level. The journey by car from Copiapo to Salar de Pedernales typically takes around 3 to 4 hours, depending on road conditions and traffic.  Planning for additional time for stops and enjoying the scenic views along the way is advisable.


THE DAY THE DESERT SWALLOWED US WHOLE - SURVIVAL MODE ON 🆘

SALAR DE PEDERNALES


Salar de Pedernales, Atacama Desert

Trapped in the desert with no water,  people or cell service, we were at the mercy of nature. Our mission? To find those stunning lagoons. But our journey took a wrong turn when we missed the sign indicating a straight 20-30-minute trek to the desired destination.


We started the trek from a very secluded spot located behind dunes. Luckily, we marked our car’s spot amidst the salt dunes before trudging for hours under the scorching sun to find the lagoons.


As we trekked through salt dunes and endless horizons, we faced a test of survival without water or mobile connection. Hours turned into a relentless quest until we finally reached the shimmering lagoons, a sight worth the struggle…?!


Under the unforgiving sun, the return journey became a battle against dehydration and exhaustion. With no help in sight and only our will to push forward, we pressed on, fueled by determination. We were honestly not sure if we were going to make it, and I am not exaggerating… 

 

Reflecting on our adventure, a missed sign marked the beginning of our hardships. A lesson learned:

  • Follow the signs.

  • Pack enough water.

  • Protect yourself from the sun.

  • Be prepared for the unexpected twists of nature’s challenges.

 

SOME INFORMATION

Salar de Pedernales is a mesmerizing natural wonder located against the backdrop of the Andes Mountains. This stunning salt flat is home to numerous lagoons and salinity pools that create a unique and surreal landscape. As you dip in the most beautiful of all blue lagoon, you'll feel like you're floating in the Dead Sea, thanks to the high salt content of the water.


IMPORTANT: One of the most essential things to keep in mind when visiting Salar de Pedernales is that there are no showers or facilities to wash yourself. This means that it's important to bring enough water not only for drinking but also for washing out the salt. Without proper rinsing, you'll end up completely white and itchy from the salt.

 

SALAR DE PEDERNALES – ANTOFAGASTA – approx. 350 km (217 mi)


After our exhilarating adventure and the relief of reaching our car, we briefly considered altering our plans to stay somewhere closer to where we were. We had a hotel booked in Antofagasta, and Nico decided and found a newfound determination and pushed through. He drove 4-5 hours to reach our hotel in Antofagasta, arriving at 2 AM. Eager to soothe our skin from the salty itchiness and the unbearable sunburn, we quickly showered and finally had the much-needed, but painful touch to the bed sheets and the pillow.

 

 

DAY 5.


ANTOFAGASTA

To my surprise, the following day revealed the extent of my sunburn – my entire face was swollen, and my eyes were nearly shut. It was the most severe sunburn I had ever experienced, causing me to grow concerned.


Unfortunately, my condition worsened over the next few days despite trying various medications to alleviate the discomfort.


ANTOFAGASTA – MANO DEL DESIERTO – approx. 46 km (28,5 mi)




MANO DEL DESIERTO / sunset

Taking it easy this day, we only ventured to El Mano del Desierto for the sunset. Antofagasta is the gateway to this wild wonderland. From there, hop on the road and cruise about 46 km (25,5 mi) south along Route 5 until you spot the giant hand rising from the sand.


It’s not just a random hand jutting out of the sand; it’s the brainchild of the Chilean sculptor Mario Irarrázabal, who crafted this masterpiece back in 1992. A deep thought frozen in stone. This hand isn’t waving hello; it’s telling a story of human vulnerability and helplessness. Deep, right? It’s like a giant art installation saying, “Hey, we’re all in this crazy ride called life together, guys!”


Make sure to roll up to the Mano del Desierto just as the sun decides to play its magic tricks. It’s like the sky is throwing a party, painting hues of orange, pink, and gold across the vast desert canvas. But hey, heads up! It can get windy, like a desert dance party where the wind’s the DJ spinning sand instead of records.

 

Overnight in Antofagasta.


 

DAY 6.


ANTOFAGASTA – MANO DEL DESIERTO – approx. 46 km (28,5 mi)





MANO DEL DESIERTO on repeat / sunrise mission

Sunrise? Sunset? Por qué no los dos? Catching both is the real deal here. Imagine waking up with the desert as it stretches and yawns into the day or winding down while the sky throws its final burst of colour before tucking in for the night.So, pack your sense of adventure and get ready to high-five the desert at the Mano del Desierto. It’s a wild ride you won’t soon forget!






MANO DEL DESIERTO – ESTACION DE TRENES – approx. 125 km (77,7 mi)



ESTACION DE TRENES

On our journey from Mano del Desierto to San Pedro de Atacama, we made a stop at Estacion de Trenes, where we encountered a fascinating collection of old trains. This historical site offers a glimpse into Chile's railway heritage, showcasing vintage locomotives and carriages that once traversed the country's vast landscapes.


Estacion de Trenes is a museum dedicated to preserving and showcasing Chile's railway history and it stands as a tribute to the bygone era of rail travel in Chile, capturing the nostalgia and charm of a time when trains were a vital mode of transportation. Visitors can explore the well-preserved trains, marvel at their intricate designs, and imagine the stories they carry from decades past.


ESTACION DE TRENES – SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA – approx. 244 km (151,6 mi)


SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

San Pedro de Atacama is a charming town in the heart of the Atacama Desert, known for its breathtaking landscapes and unique natural beauty. This desert oasis serves as the perfect base for exploring some of the region's most stunning spots.


To reach San Pedro de Atacama from Santiago, the recommended option is to book a flight to Calama Airport, situated approximately an hour's drive away. Upon arrival at the airport, you can easily board a shuttle service that will transport you to your hotel. Purchasing your shuttle ticket in advance and checking the departure schedules online to ensure a smooth and convenient transfer to your accommodation is advisable.


Time to continue your wild ride through the enchanting Atacama Desert. Known as the driest place on Earth, this otherworldly landscape boasts surreal salt flats, towering volcanoes, and lunar-like valleys.


From San Pedro de Atacama, visitors can embark on unforgettable adventures to iconic landmarks such as the otherworldly Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), the mesmerizing Salar de Atacama (Atacama Salt Flat), and the picturesque Laguna Cejar. These natural wonders offer a glimpse into the diverse and awe-inspiring landscapes of the Atacama Desert.


In addition to its natural attractions, San Pedro de Atacama is also a hub for stargazing enthusiasts, thanks to its clear skies and lack of light pollution. Visitors can enjoy mesmerizing views of the night sky and even visit the world-renowned ALMA Observatory to learn more about the mysteries of the universe.


Whether you're seeking adventure, relaxation, or a deeper connection with nature, San Pedro de Atacama offers a truly unforgettable experience. Explore the desert landscapes, witness the beauty of the salt flats, and marvel at the starlit skies – all from this enchanting town in the heart of the Atacama Desert.


WHERE TO STAY

NAYARA ALTO ATACAMA

In our exploration of where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama, our first stop was at Nayara Alto Atacama. Nestled in the embrace of the Salt Mountain Range with stunning views of the Andes Hills, Nayara Alto Atacama offers a truly unique experience.This oasis in the desert has several pools, hot springs, and even friendly llamas roaming a dedicated for them part of the property. The culinary experience at Nayara Alto Atacama is great, with a variety of delicious dishes to savour. Additionally, the wellness offerings provide a rejuvenating escape from the desert ventures.Nayara Alto Atacama has a timetable of activities each day. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, guided excursions or stargazing experiences, there is something for everyone to enjoy.


Instagram: @nayaraaltoatacama

 




 




DAY 7.


NAYARA ALTO ATACAMA – dealing with sun poisoning “coma”

This day presented a significant challenge for me as I grappled with the effects of sunburn. Merely stepping into the shade triggered a severe reaction in my skin and body. Our plans for the day had to be altered as I was at risk of ending up in the hospital. The only activity I could manage was feeding llamas and applying cold compresses to my face. 






 

DAY 8.


Despite still feeling unwell, I was determined not to miss out on the unique experiences of this journey. I took precautions by wearing protective clothing from head to toe, including gloves in scorching 30°C heat at midday. 

 

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA – EL TATIO GEYSERS – approx. 80 km (49,7 mi)

 

EL TATIO GEYSERS

We arrived early waiting for the park to open its gates at 6 AM. It was still dark outside and a fox came to us begging for food. The sweetie even wanted to get into our car. It was super cute and friendly, but we refrained from feeding it, as human food can have negative effects on wildlife. Upon entering the park, a staff member guided us to the ticket counter, directed us on the route to take with our vehicle, and emphasized the park rules, including the critical guideline of ‘’do not feed the animals’’. Unfortunately, our food does more harm than good to them.

 

Opening times: 6 AM – 5 PM

Entrance fee: 5000 CLP

 

FACTS AND TIPS:

  • Largest Geyser Field in the Southern Hemisphere: El Tatio is the largest geyser field in the Southern Hemisphere and the third-largest globally, after Yellowstone in the United States and Kronotsky in Russia.

  • Early Morning Spectacle: The best time to witness the geysers in action is during the early morning hours when the temperature difference between the underground geothermal waters and the chilly air creates the most dramatic steam eruptions. Do not deceive yourself into thinking that arriving early will guarantee a peaceful exploration on your own. Shortly after opening, a large number of tourists arrive with the same intention, especially as the morning activity of the geysers is the most impressive.

  • Unique Geothermal Activity: El Tatio is known for its unique geothermal activity, featuring over 80 active geysers and a variety of hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pots, making it a fascinating natural phenomenon to explore.

  • High Mineral Content: El Tatio’s geothermal waters are rich in minerals such as silica, sulphur, and calcium carbonate, which contribute to the colourful formations and terraces surrounding the geysers.

  • Local Indigenous Influence: El Tatio is located within the ancestral lands of the Atacameño people, who have inhabited the region for thousands of years. The geysers hold cultural and spiritual significance for the indigenous communities in the area.

  • Challenging Environmental Conditions: Despite its stunning beauty, the harsh environmental conditions at El Tatio, including high altitude and extreme temperature fluctuations, pose challenges for both visitors and the unique flora and fauna that inhabit the area. Situated at an altitude of 4320 m (14,170 feet) above sea level, it’s very chill so sunburned or not dress well in layers so that you can remove some layers as the sun appears on the horizon.



ON THE WAY BACK...

On your return journey, you will encounter picturesque green landscapes, golden-hued grasslands, and numerous stunning lagoons teeming with wildlife. These lagoons are home to various of birds, including flamingos and grazing vicunas, making them a sight worth stopping to admire. The backdrop of majestic mountains and volcanoes adds to the breathtaking scenery of the surroundings.

 

EL TATIO GEYSERS – MACHUCA – approx. 34 km (21,1 mi)

 

MACHUCA

Located 34 km (21,1 mi) from the El Tatio geysers in the direction of San Pedro de Atacama, you will find a quaint village called Machuca. This village is home to a large family residing in approximately 20 houses, primarily earning their income from the daily influx of tourists passing through. While we did not visit the village, it is a common stop on most tour agencies' itineraries. I thought it would be worth mentioning if you are interested in exploring it during your visit.

 

MACHUCA – VALLE DE LOS CACTUS – approx. 23 km (14,29 mi)


VALLE DE LOS CACTUS

On the way back, a good idea is to visit Valle de los Cactus. This mesmerizing valley is known for its stunning landscape filled with a diverse array of cacti. Here, you will be surrounded by towering cacti of various shapes and sizes, creating a surreal and enchanting atmosphere. The cacti in this valley have adapted to thrive in the harsh desert conditions, making them a symbol of resilience and endurance.


OOPS… MORE TROUBLE

We stopped along the way to capture some breathtaking landscapes with our drone. Suddenly, it lost connection and descended out of our view. Nico had to climb a hill to search for it. Meanwhile, I was in the car, shielding myself from the sun by covering all the windows with jackets and towels. I was unable to help much because I was barely seeing, and my skin was swollen to an extend I didn’t know it was possible. Despite this and the unexpected incident from the other day, I was determined to continue the trip and explore as much as possible, even if I knew that I was seriously putting my health in danger.


Fortunately, we were able to locate the drone thanks to the last known location displayed on the controller. Although the drone was damaged, all our precious memories and content were safely preserved. We had to find a solution for repairs, but it was impossible to do so in the area. As a result, we decided to purchase a new drone because our trip wasn’t finished yet. Now that we are back in Switzerland, the original drone is undergoing repairs, and we are planning of selling the one we bought in Chile, or keeping both just in case.

 

BACK TO SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

We returned to Nayara Alto Atacama and checked out after two great nights there. It was time to check in at another stunning property in San Pedro de Atacama.

 

WHERE TO STAY

HABITAS ATACAMA

At Habitas Atacama, we were welcomed with a captivating ceremony that set the tone for our stay. The ritual at Habitas allowed us to embrace the timeless essence of the moment, harmonizing with the echoes of the past, the vitality of the present, and the aspirations of the future through the sacred elements of palo santo and coca leaves.


Each ceremony at the different Habitas properties is unique and special. In addition to the memorable ceremony, we loved the variety of activities, such as stargazing, yoga, painting classes, and live music, creating a truly enriching experience.


One of the highlights of our stay was the Meditative massage, a therapeutic session that grounded us and alleviated the stress we carried. This rejuvenating experience helped us reconnect with our inner selves, fostering a sense of stability, peace, and strength.


Instagram: @habitasatacama




 

DAY 9.


SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA –  SOCAIRE – approx. 89 km (55,3 mi)



Along your route to visit destinations such as Salar de Aguas Calientes + Piedras Rojas, Lagunas Altiplanicas, and Salar de Atacama, you will traverse the Tropic of Capricorn and the Inca Trail.


The Inca Trail signifies the beginning of a trail constructed by the Incas that stretches to Cusco, Peru. The Chaskis, the Inca messengers, would traverse this path, running to deliver vital messages. The Inca Trail stands as a testament to the impressive engineering and communication systems of the Inca civilization, showcasing its cultural and historical significance.


IMPORTANT TO KNOW: When planning this adventure, it's essential to purchase your tickets online in advance. This ensures you won't miss out on these iconic sights (Piedras Rojas, Lagunas Altiplanicas).

  • Please remember that your tickets are valid for a specific date and time slot. Without them, you won't be granted entry.

  • If your international credit card doesn't work on their website, consider asking your hotel to assist with booking your tickets. They can be a valuable resource in such situations.

  • NB! Remember that you must check in at a designated location, as indicated during your reservation. This check-in point is one hour away from Piedras Rojas. There are no on-site ticket sales, and failure to check in may result in being denied entry, as observed firsthand with tourists who had valid tickets but did not check-in. Miss check-in, miss out!


Information from their website: To visit Lagunas Altiplanicas, you must have a confirmed reservation and check in at the Socaire Control Office. Check-in takes place in Socaire one hour before the reserved and confirmed time (reservation 9 AM - check-in Socaire 8 AM).
If you do not check in, you will not be allowed to enter the lagoons !!!

  • Each destination has a ticket checkpoint, and rangers preserve the area and observe that the rules are being respected.

Ticket price for all the places for international tourists/adults: 15,000 CLP

If you visit only the Lagunas Altiplanicas (Miscanti and Miniques) or only Salar de Aguas Calientes (Piedras Rojas), the ticket price is 10,000 CLP



SALAR DE AGUAS CALIENTES / PIEDRAS ROJAS

Who'd have thought I'd be among those strolling with an umbrella under the scorching sun, decked out in gloves and scarves at 30°C? Yet, here I am, ready to venture in "style" and safety! Apply SPF 50 and let’s explore these beautiful spots in Atacama Desert.


Salar de Aguas Calientes - Piedras Rojas is a stunning natural wonder. This salt flat and its surrounding red rock formations offer a unique and breathtaking landscape that attracts visitors from around the world.


Also known as the Aguas Calientes salt flat, it is one of the largest salt flats in Chile. Its vast expanse of white salt contrasts beautifully with the deep red hues of the Piedras Rojas (Red Rocks) that rise up from the ground. These striking red rocks are a result of the high iron content in the soil, creating a surreal and otherworldly scene.

 

The best time to visit Salar de Aguas Calientes / Piedras Rojas is during the early morning or late afternoon when the sunlight enhances the colours of the landscape. The clear blue skies and the reflection of the rocks in the salt flat create a picture-perfect scene for photographers and nature enthusiasts alike.


While the name "Aguas Calientes" translates to "hot waters" in Spanish, it can be a bit misleading. The waters in this area are not actually hot, but rather, the name refers to the high mineral content found in the water.


The salt flat and surrounding lagoons are known for their mineral-rich waters, which have a unique composition that supports the growth of microorganisms and algae. These microorganisms give the water a reddish hue, adding to the vibrant colours of the landscape.




LAGUNAS ALTIPLANICAS

The Lagunas Altiplánicas, comprised of Miscanti and Miniques, are two stunning high-altitude lagoons in Chile’s Atacama Desert. These lakes are part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve and offer a breathtaking and serene setting for visitors to experience the beauty of the Andean plateau.


Miscanti Lagoon
Miscanti Lagoon

Miscanti, the larger of the two lagoons, is a deep blue lake surrounded by snow-capped peaks and rocky terrain. Its tranquil waters reflect the clear blue skies above, creating a mesmerizing mirror-like effect that enhances the beauty of the landscape. The sight of flamingos wading in the shallow waters or grazing vicunas adds a touch of elegance to the scene.


On the other hand, Miniques, the smaller lagoon, offers a more intimate and secluded setting. Nestled amidst rugged mountains and volcanic peaks, Miniques exudes a sense of serenity and tranquility. The contrast between the deep blue waters of the lagoon and the stark, arid surroundings creates a striking visual contrast that is truly captivating.


Both Miscanti and Miniques lagoons are located at an altitude of over 4,000 meters above sea level. The high-altitude setting also provides a unique opportunity to witness the diverse flora and fauna that thrive in this extreme environment.

 

SALAR DE ATACAMA

Salar de Atacama is Chile’s biggest salt deposit. Its salt flat is surrounded by stunning landscapes, including towering volcanoes, rugged mountains, and colourful lagoons.


One of the highlights of Salar de Atacama is the presence of several saltwater lagoons, including the famous Laguna Chaxa. These lagoons are home to flamingos and other bird species, making them a haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts. 


In addition to its natural beauty, Salar de Atacama is also known for its high lithium content. The salt flat is a significant source of lithium, a valuable mineral used in batteries and other industrial applications. Lithium extraction has brought economic development to the region but also raises concerns about environmental impact and sustainability.



LAGUNA CHAXA

Laguna Chaxa is a stunning saltwater lagoon located within the Salar de Atacama. The tranquil waters of Laguna Chaxa reflect the surrounding landscape, creating a mirror-like effect that enhances the beauty of the salt flat and the nearby mountainsThe white salt crust that covers the lagoon's shores adds to the area's surreal and otherworldly atmosphere, making it a photographer's paradise.


Visitors to Laguna Chaxa can explore the lagoon on foot along designated paths and observation points, allowing them to observe the flamingos and other bird species up close. The peaceful and serene atmosphere of Laguna Chaxa offers a unique opportunity to connect with nature and appreciate the delicate balance of life in this harsh desert environment.


One of Laguna Chaxa's main attractions is the presence of flamingos, particularly the Andean and Chilean flamingo species. These elegant birds can be seen wading in the shallow waters of the lagoon, feeding on algae and small crustaceans. Their pink plumage contrasts beautifully with the lagoon's blue waters, creating a striking visual display.


Entrance fee: 5,000 CLP (purchase on-site)


ABOUT THE FLAMINGOS

In Chile, you can find three species of flamingos: the Andean Flamingo, Chilean Flamingo, and James's Flamingo. Each species has distinct characteristics that can help you recognize them:


Andean Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus): 

  • The Andean Flamingo is the rarest and most endangered flamingo species in the world. 

  • It has a pale pink body with bright pink legs and a yellow bill with a black tip.   - The Andean Flamingo has a black band on its bill that sets it apart from other flamingo species.

  • This species is known for its long, slender neck and graceful posture while wading in the water.

Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis):  

  • The Chilean Flamingo is Chile's most common flamingo species and can be easily recognized by its vibrant pink plumage. 

  • It has a pink body with darker pink wing feathers, a long neck, and long legs.   - The bill of the Chilean Flamingo is pale yellow with a black tip, and it lacks the black band found on the Andean Flamingo's bill.

  • This species is known for its social behaviour and can often be seen in large flocks.

James's Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi): 

  • James's Flamingo is a smaller species of flamingo with a more muted pink coloration compared to the Chilean Flamingo.  

  • It has a pale pink body with a slightly curved yellow bill with a black tip.  

  • The James's Flamingo has a pink band around its bill, similar to the Andean Flamingo, but it is not as prominent.  

  • This species is known for its distinctive feeding behaviour, which involves filtering food through its bill in shallow waters.

When visiting Laguna Chaxa and observing the flamingos, look for these key features to identify the different species. Their unique colours, bill characteristics, and behaviours make each flamingo species a fascinating and beautiful sight to behold in the Atacama Desert of Chile.

 

 

DAY 10.


SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA – VALLE DE LA LUNA – approx. 13 km (8,07 mi)


Step into Valle de La Luna, where the name translates to "The Valley of The Moon," hinting at the mystical journey awaiting you. This sacred land began its formation over 33 million years ago. Witness how time has sculpted the landscape, from the emergence of mineral-rich rocks to the birth of faults and folds that shaped the magnificent Salt Mountain Range we stand upon today.


Originally named "Las Salinas," this land was once home to a bustling salt mining operation fueled by the rich mineral deposits formed through the region's volcanic activity. The erosion of ancient rocks carrying essential chemical elements like Na and Cl and the unique endorheic basin that recycles these elements with each altiplano rain.




WHAT TO EXPECT DURING YOUR JOURNEY:

  • Discover the Higher Dune Trail, where swirling winds have crafted towering sand dunes in the heart of the Moon Valley.

  • Explore the Amphitheater, a geological marvel formed by the ancient Vilama Formation, bearing witness to volcanic ash deposits from the Andes and the dynamic forces that shaped these rocks over millennia.

  • Uncover the history of the Salt Mines, including the Victoria Mine named after Gabino Aguilar's beloved wife, Victoria Vilca, a testament to the labour and legacy of those who worked these lands.

  • Marvel at The Guards or Three Marys, where water erosion has sculpted mesmerizing formations rich in soluble minerals like Halite and Gypsum. This sacred site, once a place of ancient rituals honouring the Earth, now offers a panoramic viewpoint to soak in the beauty and history of Valle de la Luna.

Prepare to be enchanted by the tales etched in stone and the whispers of time that echo through the valleys of this lunar landscape.


Opening hours: Valle de la Luna is open all year round.

From September to March

Bicycles: 9 AM - 11 AM; Other vehicles 9 AM - 5 PM (people on foot cannot enter)

 Ckari sector entrance hours

10:30 AM - 7:30 PM

 

From April to August

Bicycles: 8 AM - 11 AM; Other vehicles: 8 AM - 4 PM (people on foot cannot enter)

Ckari sector entrance hours

10:30 AM – 6 PM

 

Entrance fee: 10,800 CLP (can be purchased online or on-site)



BACK TO HABITAS ATACAMA FOR MEDITATIVE MASSAGE

After exploring Valle de la Luna, we returned to Habitas Atacama for a well-deserved moment of relaxation. Our souls craved tranquillity, and we found it through a Meditative Massage experience that was truly transformative.


As we surrendered to the soothing voice and touch of the massage therapist, our spirits were set free, and the weight of stress and tension melted away. It was a moment of pure bliss and renewal, reminding us of the importance of self-care and mindfulness in the midst of our desert adventure.











RETURNING TO A SUNSET VANTAGE POINT OVER VALLE DE LA LUNA

You can enjoy a sunset view overlooking Valle de la Luna in multiple locations. These spots are located outside the designated park area, so there is no need for a ticket. However, arriving early to secure parking for your vehicle is advisable.

 








 

DAY 11.




YOGA, CHANGE OF ACCOMMODATION AND VEHICLE RETURN

The day began with a yoga session at our lovely accommodation, Habitas Atacama. After that, we checked out and relocated to a different place. Nico then returned our rental car rental at Calama Airport and came back with a pre-booked shuttle service.


We spent the rest of the day preparing for our upcoming journey to Bolivia, packing and organizing our  essentials for the trip. Additionally, we explored more of San Pedro de Atacama and enjoyed another beautiful sunset.





 

DAY 12. – DAY 15.


PICK UP FROM OUR HOTEL AND OFF TO BOLIVIA

Once the blog post about Bolivia is up, I will share the LINK HERE.

 


 

DAY 15.


BACK TO SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

We spent our last day in the area buying souvenirs and savouring the vibe of this place.



 

DAY 16.


SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA – CALAMA – approx. 101 km (62,75 mi)

CJC – SCL – approx. 1,535 km (953,8 mi) / flight duration 2 hrs


BACK TO WHERE WE STARTED – SANTIAGO


SCL – THE RITZ CARLTON SANTIAGO – approx. 28 km (17,3 mi)


Before checking in, we went to eat a delicious pizza very close to the hotel – the name of the restaurant is Pizzeria Tiramisu.


WHERE TO STAY

THE RITZ CARLTON SANTIAGO

If you're looking for another luxurious stay in Santiago, I can't recommend the Ritz Carlton enough. Situated in the bustling financial district, this hotel perfectly blends elegance and modern comfort.


The rooftop spa with its rooftop covered pool is a haven of relaxation. Don’t miss to try their rejuvenating massages that will melt away all your stress.


One of the highlights of my stay was the Club Lounge access on the 10th floor. It's a cosy retreat where you can enjoy light snacks and refreshing drinks while taking in the stunning views of the city.


And trust me, a dinner at Estro Santiago is an absolute must-try. The flavours and ambience are simply unforgettable.


The Ritz Carlton's design is tasteful and sophisticated, creating a stylish and welcoming atmosphere. Starting your day with a delicious breakfast in your room is a lovely touch that sets the tone for a great day ahead. The staff at the Ritz Carlton is incredibly kind and attentive, making sure every guest feels special and well taken care of.




 

DAY 17.


THE RITZ CARLTON SANTIAGO – SANTIAGO TELEFERICO – approx. 3 km (1,86 mi)


SANTIAGO TELEFERICO

The cable car, known as Teleferico, in Santiago, is a must-do experience for anyone visiting the vibrant city. Offering panoramic views of the sprawling cityscape and the majestic Andes Mountains, the Teleferico provides a unique perspective of Santiago from above.


As you ascend in the cable car, you'll be treated to breathtaking vistas that showcase the beauty of the city and its surrounding natural landscapes. The ride is not only a scenic journey but also a thrilling adventure that allows you to see Santiago from a whole new angle.The Teleferico in Santiago has several stations or entrances along its route, including Oasis Station, Tupahue Station, and Cumbre Station.


We took the cable car all the way up and came down, but you could also walk down, which I would have done if we had more time.


Opening times: From Tuesday to Sunday from 10 AM to 6:45 PM (last descent).

Closed on Monday for maintenance.

Tickets: You can purchase your tickets online here or from a vending machine on-site.


BACK FOR A MASSAGE AT THE RITZ CARLTON SANTIAGO

We enjoyed the Signature Ritz Massage before heading to the airport and getting on the plane for the long flight home.


 

As our Chilean adventure came to an end, we found ourselves yearning for more. The beauty and warmth of Chile exceeded our expectations, leaving us with unforgettable memories. Dreaming of our next journey, we set our sights on Torres del Paine and the wild wonders of Patagonia, eager to explore more of this enchanting country.


With its rich natural beauty and cultural heritage, Chile had stolen a piece of our hearts, and we knew we would be back for more. Until next time, Chile, hasta luego!




 

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